San Isidro, Tenerife. 29th July – 12th August 2003

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Montana de Yaco Apartments
By Rob Dazley


This was a family holiday so there was no chance to go on sea-watching ferry trips, I was able to do some early morning walks and one half day foray. We stayed in apartment on the upper outskirts of San Isidro. This is inland from Medano.

Species such as Blue Tit, Chiffchaff, Kestrel and Plain Swift were seen regularly around the apartment and will probably be seen regardless of where you are staying (within reason).

On 1st August a family drive conveniently took us past Las Lajas - the picnic area famed for its Blue Chaffinches. Even as we got out of the car a Blue Chaffinch was calling above us and once we walked across to the area of picnic benches several were visible. I also noticed a group of Canary feeding quietly under a table, there must have been 8 or 10 birds including a couple of quite nice males. There were Great-spotted Woodpecker, Turtle Doves and Blue Tits around the same area however there was no sign of the Tenerife Goldcrest.

A pre-breakfast explore on 3rd saw me wandering in the area around Golf Sur. I found it difficult to get onto the golf course so I confined myself to an area adjacent to the northern edge of the course (next to an area where a new apartment complex is being built). I found a group of c15 Spanish Sparrow (a species that I did not see too widely) to start with which were quickly followed by Berthelot's Pipit, these are really quite common and were the most vocal birds in the small area I explored. Next species was a fly past Blackbird followed by a quite confiding albeit tatty Hoopoe. A bit of patience exploring was rewarded with nice views of a pair of Blackcap and a cracking male Spectacled Warbler. Other than the omnipresent Plain Swifts and Feral Pigeons there were a couple of Blue Tit and a Kestrel seen. It seems like a good idea to avoid Sundays as the locals are out with their dogs hunting rabbit in the dry areas.

The following day (4th) I spent a long morning out birding. The first decent bird of the day was Raven with a pair on pylons just beyond Santiago del Teide. Courtesy of Clarke’s "Where to find birds" I found the pools at Erjos - there is no way I would have done without it’s directions as the road that you need to take is little more than a farm track. Around the pools I saw 30+ Canary, Chiffchaff and Sardinian Warbler; a female Chaffinch showed itself briefly and a Linnet flew over calling, Blackbird were visible and although I could not see it there was a vocal Buzzard overhead. On the pools themselves Moorhen were easily seen but there were no herons around. On the walk back to the car I saw a couple of Goldfinch and another Linnet. There was a lot of activity here and although not many species were involved (mainly Canary and Chiffchaff) this was probably the most populous bird site that I encountered on the island.

200 yards further on from the pools turning I took a left onto the track to Monte del Agua and started to bump the requisite 4.7 km to the rock with a rain gauge. This was quite a drive, reminiscent of a badly maintained farm track in places and the width of the car for most of its length it passed through a continual tunnel of trees which would have made the journey quite pleasant if it had not been for the quality of road surface (15 kph would be reckless). I saw a Robin darting into cover as I drove and also what must have been a Queen of Spain Fritillary along the way. At the rain gauge I stopped - if the drive was quite a pleasant scenic experience then the view from the vantage point was stunning. A series of valleys spread below me with small clouds of mist drifting in from the coast while the majority of the scene was bathed in sunlight. All of the slopes were cloaked in laurel creating one of those views that a camera can never do justice to.

I arrived at just before 10:30 and within seconds I saw the first Bolle's Pigeon flash past below me - no time for bins but a cracking naked eye view of the dark bird and the distinctive tail pattern. Within ten minutes I had seen half a dozen Bolle’s but it was nearly 45 minutes before I finally satisfied myself with a Laurel Pigeon - the tails of many of the pigeons looked light as they bank in the distance and it took a couple of relatively close views before I was sure. During the hour that I scanned from the top of the rock the other species noted were Chiffchaff, Blue Tit, Buzzard, Sparrowhawk and of course Plain Swift all seen and Chaffinch calling. Again there was no sign of the Goldcrest that I had hoped for although I did not stray far from the rock itself to stare into the trees.

My next stop was Punto Teno to look for Barbary Falcon. The road here is officially closed and there are roadside hoardings warning of the danger of falling rocks if the weather is windy, generally everyone ignores the signs and drives straight on but you can’t complain that you weren’t warned if you choose that option and a rock lands on the car !! I dutifully stopped at the points suggested in Clarke’s book to search the cliff faces but they are huge and the wind was very much in attendance, not a factor I welcomed in light of the hoardings. In short – I had no success with the falcons – I wonder whether on windy days they move to other areas or more likely is this area always windy?

Another pre-breakfast walk on 6th August saw me at Guargacho. I parked level with reservoir No1 and walked across disturbing a group of about 80 Spanish Sparrow in the bushes by the lip of the pit. Grey Wagtail were feeding at the waters edge and there were three Little Ringed Plover here too. A Hoopoe flew away as I approached and the regulation Bethelot's Pipit and Plain Swifts were present. As this was early morning I walked round to the eastern side of the reservoir to get the sun behind me and in doing so disturbed a Blackbird, I then walked the 500m down to the 2nd reservoir along the dry barranco although the only species seen between the two were pipits. No1 had a lot more water than No2 which only had a patch of water 15mx15m. In the scrub here I saw Blackcap and Spectacled Warbler and a Little Egret flew over. Again there were Grey Wagtail and another three Little Ringed Plover and possibly the same Hoopoe as earlier. Before returning to the car I checked out No1 again and found a Southern Grey Shrike perched on the top of a dead-looking tree, calling. I left but on the way home diverted to the back of the row of showrooms and factories at Las Chafiras from where it is possible to reach the Amarilla golf course. I did not stay long but had a quick look into the dammed area behind the old (and happily now deserted) guard post, the water level was a bit high and there was nothing particularly noteworthy present.

That evening I had a stroll on the hillside above San Isidro, apart from the fact that everywhere has a dog which barks like mad but is fortunately confined behind a fence - it was quite a pleasant 15 minute stroll. I had a good view of the local Kestrel mobbing a Barbary Falcon as the larger bird drifted east, also seen were the ubiquitous Berthlot’s Pipit, a nice male Sardinian Warbler and a Southern Grey Shrike

Another early start on 7th saw me on the road at 07:00 (in the dark) as I drove up to the Las Lajas picnic site to look for the local Goldcrests. I saw a party of about a dozen Barbary Partridge at 07:15 on the road between Granadilla and Vilaflor and although I stopped to check things on wires several times I saw nothing much else. On several occasions I thought I heard crests calling as I drove but having stopped to search always drew a blank. I arrived at Las Lajas and spent just under an hour wandering around but had no luck with the crests although there were quite a few Canary and GS Woodpecker present plus there were probably half a dozen sightings of Blue Chaffinch's. I dismissed a group of pigeons as feral until I stopped and looked and realised they were actually Rock Dove

On 8th August I was out early and I headed for Amarilla golf as I now knew where to go and access to the course was much simpler than Golf Sur. A quick check of the dam on the way produced two Common Sandpiper and a single Grey Heron.
I drove on and parked to the west of the road just before the club house. A walk across the road brought me to the edge of the fairway and straightaway I saw a Hoopoe feeding on the grass. Also quickly on the list was Southern Grey Shrike with a vocal bird supervising its territory from the top of a low bush. Chiffchaff and Berthlot’s Pipit were soon added then a surprise as I flushed a group of six Stone Curlew which flew back across the road into the "desert" to hide. I wandered further into the course and at one point could see two widely separated pairs of Hoopoe, later there were three feeding together. I was hoping to find Lesser Short-toed Lark here but had no success. To the west of the road a group of c6 Barbary Partridge were flushed and another Southern Grey Shrike was seen.

My final early morning walk was on 10th August when I went back to the golf course at Amarilla. The dam produced a Grey Heron, a single Common Sandpiper and five Little Ringed Plover. I parked again on the dirt track and walked onto the golf course, Southern Grey Shrike had been seen before I crossed the road. I walked across to the flat stony area on the far side of the fairway but only found Berthelot’s Pipits and a single Little Ringed Plover. In the area of cultivated grass which appears to be used for course repairs three Hoopoe were confiding and allowed quite a close approach as they walked around feeding. As I walked back past the 15th hole a group of Spanish Sparrow were active but there were another two birds which presented a splash of colour – they were eventually identified as Yellow-crowned Bishops (my thanks to Tony Clarke for his assistance)

Considering that I did not commit much serious time to birdwatching I managed to see most of the species that I had targeted – the disappointments really related to missing Lesser Short-toed Lark and Trumpeter Finch although as I understand it both these species and Rock Sparrow are becoming much harder to see on the island.

Rob Dazley
15 Index Drive, Dunstable, Beds

Species Lists

Barbary Partridge One of this species (presumably) flew over the autopista near the airport junction. About a dozen on the roadside near Cruz de Tea, near Granadilla. (7th). A covey of six flushed to the west of road by Amarilla Golf.

Little Egret: One over Guargacho No2 (heading towards No1).

Grey Heron: One disturbed from Amarilla Dam on 8th and 10th.

Sparrowhawk: One seen hunting at Mountain del Agua. (4th Aug).

Common Buzzard: Heard at Erjos but not seen. One soaring in the valley below the rain gauge at Mountain del Agua.

Eurasian Kestrel: Commonly seen by apartment in Yaco, San Isidro. Up to three seen together. Also seen at Golf Sur.

Barbary Falcon: One over Yaco (north of San Isidro) being mobbing by Kestrels.

Moorhen: About six noted on the pools at Erjos (4th Aug).

Stone Curlew: Six disturbed from the fringe of Amarilla Golf, headed into dry scrub 8th.

Little-ringed Plover: Three around Guargacho No1 and another three at No2. One on dry area at Amarilla Golf on 8th and 10th. Five around the fringes of the dam at Amarilla on 10th.

Common Sandpiper Two on the fringes of Amarilla Dam on 8th and one on 10th.

Yellow-legged Gull Light westerly evening movement at San Isidro. A group of c100 loafing gulls just east of Medano, near the Windfarm. Individuals seen along various beachs.

Rock Dove: The feral pigeons at Las Lajas had all the field marks of the source species (7th).

Bolles Pigeon: About 20 sightings in an hours stake out at Mountain del Agua. (4th Aug).

Laurel Pigeon
: Two positive sightings in an hours stake out at Mountain del Agua. (4th Aug).

Collared Dove: Commonly seen by apartment in Yaco, San Isidro. Also seen in Los Christianos and at Amarilla golf.

Turtle Dove: Two together at Lajas picnic site 1st Aug and again on 7th. Occasional sightings of a pair near the apartment.

Plain Swift: Seen daily over San Isidro – groups of up to 30 wheeling around. Small numbers overhead at Golf Sur, Mountain del Agua, Punto de Teno.

Hoopoe: One feeding on fringe of Golf Sur. One feeding by Guargacho No1 with poss a 2nd at No2 (7th Aug). Plentiful on Amarilla Golf with at least four birds seen on 8th. Three allowed a close approach at Amarilla on 10th – they must be used to golfers.

Great Spotted Woodpecker At least two at Las Lajas on 1st and at least four on 7th.
Berthelot’s Pipit Widely seen, one of the commonest birds on the southern side of the island.

Grey Wagtail: Individuals seen and heard on most days by apartment in Yaco, San Isidro. Up to three seen together by apartment Also seen in Lorro Parque (5th Aug) Seen around the edge of Guargacho No1 & 2 and at Amarilla Dam.

Robin: One seen on the track at Mountain del Agua.

Blackbird: One in a barranco in Santa Cruz. One on fringe of Golf Sur. Small numbers at Erjos (>5). One at Guargacho No1.

Spectacled Warbler A nice male on the fringe of Golf Sur. Another male by Guargacho No2.

Sardinian Warbler A male seen at Erjos Pools on 4th Aug. A male seen in Yaco, San Isidro.

Blackcap: A pair feeding on fringe of Golf Sur. One near Guargacho No2.

Chiffchaff: Individuals seen and heard on most days by apartment in Yaco, San Isidro. Also seen at Erjos, Mountain del Agua, Amarilla Golf.

Blue Tit: Individuals seen and heard on most days by apartment in Yaco, San Isidro. Also seen at Lajas picnic area, Golf Sur, Mountain del Agua.

Southern Grey Shrike One seen and heard at Guargacho No1. One seen at Yaco, San Isidro. One seen at Amarilla Golf on 8th and 10th.

Raven: A pair seen just north of Santiago del Teide.

Spanish Sparrow A group of two or three birds in Santa Cruz.c15 on the fringes of Golf Sur (3rd Aug). A group of c12 in Lorro Parque. A group of c80 by Guargacho No1. A group of 20+ at Amarilla golf near the 15th green.

Chaffinch: A couple of females at Erjos pools, heard calling at Mountain del Agua.

Blue Chaffinch About six individuals around the car park in Las Lajas car park on 1st Aug.With about the same seen again on 7th.

Canary: 10+ feeding in picnic area at Las Lajas. A flock of c50 birds at Erjos on 4th Aug. On wires around Villaflor on and double figures at Las Lajas picnic site (7th).

Goldfinch: Two seen at Erjos (4th Aug).

Linnet: Heard overhead and a single male feeding with Canary at Erjos. (4th Aug).

Yellow-crowned Bishop:
Two seen on Amarilla golf (10th).