Two different routes across Biscay will allow you to see cetaceans and seabirds; they are Portsmouth-Bilbao and Plymouth-Santander.
Plymouth-Santander
This boat travels slightly further to the west than that bound for Bilbao on both journeys but less time is available for seawatching. The bonus is that the lookout is forward facing and so gives a panoramic view of the sea. Also the forward movement of the boat produces an updraft that leaves the watcher in a sheltered position in most winds. Scopes set on 20/30X wide angle can be used effectively. The species totals for birds and mammals often equals those seen from the Bilbao boat. On reaching Santander there are no easy places to go and birdwatch or look at butterflies etc.
Portsmouth-Bilbao.
The average time available for seawatching is 32 hours over the three days. On the first day, watching from 0630 to 2100 is the norm followed by 1208 to 2100 on the southern part of the return leg. On the last day as you approach NW France and the Channel Islands you have a further 8.45 hours (0615 to 1500). You also have approximately 4 hours birding/ insect hunting time on the hills behind Bilbao. The watching points are from the side only but the bridge shelters them. This allows a view of approximately 140 degrees. A scope can be used up to wind speeds of 20mph. The engine vibrations are minimal and good views can be obtained.
Parking at Portsmouth
The parking fee is £15 for the time of the return journey. It is only 250metres from the terminal and is fenced and guarded. As you approach the P and O dock it is clearly signposted.
The terminal and travelling times
Once you are booked in a bus transports you to the boat, The Pride of Bilbao. You sail at 2000 and have to be at the terminal one hour beforehand. You arrive in Bilbao at 0630 two days later, leaving at 12.30 the same day. You arrive back at Portsmouth at1600 the following day. You will need your passport at the British and Spanish ends.
Accommodation
Is very good with showers etc. Linen is changed on the return leg. Two cinemas with up to date films are available for the older children plus a lower deck swimming pool and play area for the small children. In the evening there are several good quality bars but drinks are expensive. A quality cabaret is also provided free. The Posh Bar is ideal for a quiet drink to discuss the days observations. There will shortly be (July 2000) an information room dedicated to cetacean watching.
Food
The quality of the food is very high with several outlets catering for all tastes and pockets. To minimise time away from the deck it is a good idea to buy filled hot or cold rolls and take them back on deck. Dehydration is also an issue so bottles of water are essential. Although duty free has ended good deals are available on scotch, gin, chocolate etc. The a la carte menu is impressive but tables need to be booked.
Clothing
Early morning watching was cold in late July. I was very glad to have body warmers, waterproofs and gloves! Later as the sun came out clothes are shed and then replaced in the evening. The UV light penetrates through light cloud and so sun burn will occur. Sun cream and a hat are advisable during the long periods on deck.
Where to seawatch from
The best area is just behind the bridge, on the western side on the outward journey and eastern side on the first leg north. Otherwise sea glare prevents some colour being determined. It is also less stressful on the eyes. These locations are sheltered in winds up to 20mph. Above this scopes cannot be used and holding binoculars becomes more difficult. Note that unlike the Santander ferry there are no seats on the upper deck. You are about 80 feet above sea level and so are very much higher than on the Scillonian (August Scillies pelagics). The stabilisers provide a very stable platform even in a sizeable swell. It is often hard to believe you are on a boat. Biscay can get very rough but this is less common in summer.
Records
Details of Cetacean sightings should be sent to
Andy Williams (Biscay Cetacean Research Group Andy.Williams@Biscay_dolphin.org.uk).
Or to Hugh Harrop of the new cetacean organisation Orca.
Or to The Seawatch Foundation, 11 Jersey Road, Oxford OX4 4RT
A GPS (Global Positioning System) tracker is a bonus, as it will provide precise details of the location of an interesting sighting. Photographic evidence is also very useful. Many sightings may not be identifiable to species. For example Andy Williams considers the beaked whales a very difficult group to identify accurately. I found a hand held tape recorder invaluable as it allowed verbal descriptions to be taken with times and directions of flight/ swimming. If you do not have a GPS tracker the approximate location of sightings can be related to the course diagrams on the maps opposite the information desk on deck 6. It shows positions at 6 hourly intervals along the route. It also shows water depths. This is useful, as most large cetaceans appear to feed at or beyond the edge of the continental shelf. On the southern leg the sea depth drops rapidly to 4,200 metres.
Locations along the route
The best locations for large cetaceans are at the southern end of the Bay of Biscay where water is at its deepest. The afternoon and evening on the S route and the afternoon and evening of the return leg are likely to be best. But cetaceans do occur in the north as 10 Minkes were seen near the Channel Islands on the N leg (25th July) close to a major shipping lane.
Identification guides/ reports
The best on the market seems to be Mark Carwardines Whales, Dolphins and Porpoises (£14.99)(0-71513-1031-1). I gather that it is temporarily out of print as Penguin have taken it over from Dorling Kindersley. I gather Foyles in London had three copies recently. The other publication is a Guide to the Identification of Whales, Dolphins and Porpoises in European Seas (1995) (1 85716 193 9) by Peter G.H. Evans. It is available from The Seawatch Foundation price £5.75p . Address: 11 Jersey Road, Oxford OX4 4RT. It also has a list of who to send records to on the inside cover. They will also send you a cetacean recording sheet. Andy Williams has produced a book recently entitled Biscay Safari, which provides information on the Biscay crossing. I have yet to get a copy. Unfortunately they had sold out on the boat on the previous trip. There is also a video available on board called The Pride of the bay. It outlines cetacean watching across Biscay on the Pride of Bilbao. It has some great cetacean shots. The journal Wildlife has had a number of cetacean based articles including an excellent recent one by Dylan Walker who leads some of the cetacean/birding trips across Biscay with Hugh Harrop. (See book details at the bottom of this page)
OrcaWeb has loads of useful Biscay info including an animated ID guide to whales
Birding and Butterflies around Bilbao
I have produced a summary spreadsheet of the species seen on the two legs of the crossing and the butterflies and birds at Bilbao within walking distance of the terminal. If you would like a copy then email me. On leaving the terminal at Bilbao cut across the boarding lorries and cars to the far side of the parking area keeping the boat on your right. On reaching the large warehouse on your left continue to its end and turn left. You leave the compound through a security gate. Turn right and over the railway via a footbridge. Pass the café on your left and turn left down hill. At the bottom turn right keeping the hills to your right. Turn up the second road on the right, which leads to the edge of the hills. At the end of the road turn left and continue on the path through the allotments and few houses; it rises steeply. Continue for the next 2 miles stopping off at likely places. You will see Fan-tailed and Sardinian Warblers in late summer plus migrants from August onwards. Keep on the steep track heading towards the powerlines and distant hill top radio station. You will see many Red-backed Shrikes. Ravens are present on the hill tops and Griffons occur during spring and autumn passage. On this track you will also see many butterflies and grasshoppers. A monocular and or a small net could be of use to help with identification of the small blues and browns. We missed some species, as we did not have this equipment with us. At the top of the hill is a public play area for children. Just beyond it is a concrete roads that leads back down to the town and the terminal. It takes about 3.5 hours to do the 4/5 miles walk. Alternatively arrange for a taxi to take you to the top and spend more time insect hunting and birding.
Graham Ekins 26/7/00
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Guide to the Offshore Wildlife of the Northern Atlantic by Michael Tove
To identify all the air-breathing offshore wildlife potentially encountered on birding, whale-watching, or sport fishing trips at sea, you could take along a stack of field guides--or this one comprehensive guide to all the birds, whales, dolphins, seals, and sea turtles of the Northern Atlantic.