By Georges & Mireille Olioso
Georges & Mireille Olioso, le Mail, 26230 Grignan (France).
e-mail : Georges.Olioso@wanadoo.fr
Practical information
Language
Greek language is very difficult. Many Cretans speak English or German.
On the roads
Driving is on the right. All the roads but the main on the north coast are narrow with often big holes. Il is necessary drive carefuly above all in the small villages and on mountain roads. Motor-fuels are cheap. Cars renters and motor-bike renters are numerous in all the cities and expensive.
Accomodation
Renting a room is a good idea. Rooms are numerous and often cheap. There are hotels in the toursit areas, that are cheap during April and October but often expensive or very expensive in summer (June to September). Booking is not necessary in April or in the first half of May.
Taberna and restaurants are cheap and a good meal is possible with $8.00 or $10.00. Traditional Cretan food is the best choice: Zaziki (cucumber, yoghourt and garlic), aubergine salad, Souvlaki, fried rabbit, Greek salads (tomatoes, cucumber, olives, feta and olive oil).
Our best addresses In Spilia, 3 or 4 km south of Knossos, just under the Agia Irini aqueduc, there is the small taverna OXPEIAZOMERO. Traveller's cheques are a good idea. Credit Cards are not often used. Visa Card most common. There are money machines only in the bigest cities.
Books The Birds of Greece G. Handrinos & T. Akriotis. It is not a field guide but it is very useful. Birds of Europe Lars Jonsson. A birdwatching guide to Crete, Stephanie Coghlan. Numerous sites, but maps are often unprecise and the bird list is not perfect. Yet useful.
Itinerary
1. Knossos area
To Mounts Jouchtas, pass the Knossos archeological site, after 5 km, turn right to Ano Arhanes. 4 km after this small town, a small road goes down on the right (there is an European Union panel). Park here and walk the dirty road (Griffon Vultures, Eleonora's Falcon...). En route, look the Agia Irini aqueduc (Jackdaws of thesommerringii race).
2. Lasithi plateau
(map 1). In the west, between Agios Haralambos and Kato Metohi, there is a temporray pool with some waders. After the late village, look at the river and the farmland for Woodchat Shrike, Chough, Black-eared Wheatear... In the east, past Mesa Lasithi, walk the dirty roads on the right (Griffon Vultures, Long-legged Buzzard...). Near Agios Georgios walk the durty roads in the farmlands (Wryneck, Red-footed Falcon, Short-toed Lark, Crested Lark...)
3. Elounda old salt pans and neighbourhood
Driving north, in the middle of the city, turn right at the panel the other side of Elounda (in English). This site is very good late April (Black-headed Wagtail, Woodchat Shrike...). Driving Iraklion to Agios Nikolaos, 17 km before this city, the road follows the Selinari gorge. Park on the left after the Moni Agios Georgios (Monatery of Saint George) near an old quarry. Griffon Vultures nest above the road. (also seen, Golden Eagles, Blue Rock Thrush, Crag Martin...)
4. Kato Zakros
A small bay with a small river, gorge and olive orchard (Collared Flycatcher, Olive-tree Warbler, Audouin's Gull, Rock Dove, Scops Owl... )
5. Analipsi
east of the Makrigalios bay. Small river with Grey Heron, Red-footed Falcon, Cetti's Warbler...)
6. Ierapetra lake
. Big reservoir near the city (Black Tern, White-winged Black tern, Black-winged Stilt, Squacco Heron, Little Grebe, Alpine Swift...)
7. Festos area
. Near the Gortys archeological site, there is a river with Common Sandpiper, Squacco Heron, European Oriole... In the small village of Kamilari, Collared Dove and Scops Owl bred. The Monastery of Vrondissi and neighbourhood, near the village of Ano Zaros, north of the main road, are good (Black-eared Wheatear, Crag Martin, Blue Rock Thrush, Alpine Swift...)
8. Agia Galini
. This small harbour is surrounded by cliffs where Alpine Swift and Blue Rock Thrush nest. Walking the track at the east of the harbour, you arrive to a small river (Kingfisher, Reed Warbler and other migrants...)
9. Plakias area
Very good area. 22 km south of Rethymnon, turn right to Asomatos and Plakias. After 4 km, the road follow the Kourtaliotiko gorge (Lammergeier, Griffon Vulture, Golden Eagle, Raven, Crag Martin, Alpine Swift, Blue Rock Thrush...). Drive to Moni Prevelli (Chukar, Ortolan, Black-eared Wheatear...). Return to Plakias, en route, pass the village of Lefkogia ; 200 m after the motor-fuel station, turn left to a small bay with a river (Little Bittern, Great-reed Warbler...)
10. Frangocastello
. The village is between Plakias and Hora Sfakion. After the small village of Skaloti (22 km after Sellia), turn left to Frangocastello, park as soon as possible on the side of the road and explore pastures and orchards (Short-toed and Crested Larks, Tawny Pipit, Black-headed Wagtail... We saw a Richard's Pipit here !).
11. Georgioupoli area
. For Georgioupoli lake, drive the old road Xania - Rethymnon, this road follow the lake 4 km before Georgioupoli (Little Grebe, Great Reed Warbler, Olivaceous Warbler, Terns...). For Kournas lake, east Georgioupoli, always on the old road, follow the signs (Terns, waders, Olivaceous, Reed, Great Reed, Cetti's Warblers...).
12. Agia reservoir
. Very good site. En route from Xania to Samaria gorge, Agia reservoir is 5 km south of Xania. At the small village of Agia, park near the church and walk the small road in the Eucalyptus wood. There is a gate... Ask to open. (Little Crake, Little Bittern, Little Grebe, Great Reed Warbler, Marsh Harrier...)
13. Omalos plateau
After Agia reservoir drive south for Samaria gorge. The road cross Omalos plateau, a cultivated area (Woodlark, Tawny Pipit, Griffon Vulture...)
14. Kasteli/Kisamos area
There is a small river at the western exit of the city. The mouth is good for waders (Little-ringed Plover, Ruff, Green Sandpiper, Temminck's Stint, Red-throated Pipit, Black-headed Wagtail...). To the mouth, driving to west, turn right just after the bridge on the river and drive right following this. There is small wet farmlands in the city, just at the west exit on the right (250 m after the bridge), with Little Egret, Squacco Heron, Glossy Ibis, Wagtails...
15. Hrissoskalitissa
This monastery is on the south-west coast. From Kisamos, drive south and pass Topolia, Mili, Elos. When the road arrive in the small bay of Stomio, look at sea for Shag and Shearwaters.
Walk the last road on the left before the monastery and explore the cultivated lands (Chuckar, Woodchat Shrike, Black-eared Wheatear, Olivaceous Warbler, numerous migrants...). Then drive the new road to Elafonisi beach (Yellow-legged Gull colony, Little-ringed Plover...)
16. Rethymnon area
. Look at the Platanes river, 3 km east Rethymnon. The is a small road on the left side of the river, upstream the bridge with easy park (Waders, Reed, Great Reed, Cetti's and Olivaceous Warblers, Blue Rock Thrush...)
17. Askifos plateau
Between Vrisses and Hora Sfakion. Farmlands (Corn Bunting, Woodchat Shrike, Stonechat...)
18. Livadia neighbourood
Driving the old road Rethymnon - Iraklion, 24 km after Rethymnon (at Perama), turn right to Anogia. Livadia is 12 km after. Explore pastures and farmlands (Griffon Vulture, Red-rumped Swallow...)
19. Mountains south of Anogia
This is the only mountainous site easily accessible. Living Livadia, drive to Anogia then turn right to observatory and ski resort. After 15 km a road start on the left without sign. This is the road to the observatory at 1742 m (5,250 feet) (Chuckar, Wheatear, Chough, Eleonora's Falcon, Griffon Vulture..). The other road go to Ideo Cave (species are the same.).
20. Aposelemis mouth
. Arriving from east, turn right just after the bridge on the dirty road and park where is possible. A very good site for migrants (numerous waders, Olivaceous, Cetti's, Reed, Great Reed and Sedge Warblers, Short-toed Lark, Little Bittern, Squacco Heron, Bee-eater...)
21. Thrapsano lake
(maps 6a & 6b). Drive from Iraklion, pass Knossos. 12 km after the archeological site turn left to Kastelli and, well before this city, right to Voni and Thrapsano. In the village, follow the main road until the church. Turn left just before the church and follow the sign to Kastelli. 200 m after the exit, turn left on a large road and drive this road until the lake (Glossy Ibis, Squacco Heron, Little Egret, Spotted Sandpiper, Hobby, Eleonora's Falcon, Bee-eater, Red-throated Pipit, Black-headed Wagtail, Sedge Warbler, Little Bittern, Wiskered Tern...
Annotated species lists
abbreviations: f = female ; m = male ; Max = maximum
During these three weeks, we saw 127 species (or races). Many of the species are east-European species. We did not seen Ruppell's Warbler or Black-headed Bunting.
Birds (except Chukar !) are tame, this is extraordinary for a Mediterranean land where hunters are numerous.
The more common species are Chaffinch, Italian Sparrow, Greenfinch, Goldfinch, Blackbird, Sardinian Warbler, Great Tit, Crested Lark, Swallow, Stonechat and European Black Swift.
(Numbers in brackets are the number of observations for the species).
1. Little Grebe
Tachybaptus ruficollis
(5). Kournas, Ierapetra lakes & Agia reservoir. At Georgioupoli lake, a pair feeding 1 young, 30/04 et 05/05.
2. Black-necked Grebe
Podiceps nigricollis
(1). 1, Ierapetra lake, 26/04.
15. Eurasian Griffon
Gyps fulvus ƒ
(14). Seen in all the mountains. Small colony in the bSelinari gorge with 2 youngs at nest 08/05. Max. 15, 07/05 above Krassi (west Lasithi).
16. Western Marsh-Harrier
Circus aeruginosus
(3). 01/05, f. at the Tavronitis and Agia reservoir. 1, Phalassarna 03/05.
17. Montagu's Harrier
Circus pygargus
(2). 1 f. 23/04 Agios Georgios (Lasithi) et 2 m. imm. 29/04 near Frangokastello.
28. Common Pheasant
Phasianus colchicus
(1). 1 singing 08/05 near Aposelemis mouth. Probably an introduced bird.
29. Little Crake Porzana parva
(1). 3 m. 01/05 Agia reservoir.
30. Common Moorhen
Gallinula chloropus
(9). Seen at all the lakes and rivers. Max. more of 50, 01/05 Agia reservoir.
31. Eurasian Coot
Fulica atra
50 Ierapetra lake 26/04 ; 21, 30/04 Kournas ; 2 Agia reservoir 01/05. At Georgioupoli lake, a pair seen building a nest. This species is an occasional breeding in Crete.
33. Little Ringed Plover
Charadrius dubius ƒ
(7). 2, 02/05 Elafonisi. All other data from north coast at river mouth (Kisamos, Platanes, Aposelemis) or on beach (Elafonisi, Rethymnon, Metohi). Pair displaying 08/05 Aposelemis mouth.
49. Black Tern
Chlidonias niger
(1). 13 Ierapetra lake 26/04.
50. White-winged Tern
Chlidonias leucopterus
(2). 2 Ierapetra lake 26/04 and 3 Kournas lake 30/04.
51. Rock Dove
Columba livia
(6). Wild birds seen Kato Zakros and Kourtaliotiko gorge, Vrondissi, Fodele and Agia Galini cliffs. In the late site, there are also feral birds
52. Common Wood Pigeon
Columba palumbus
(8). 3 singers Lasithi 22/04 and 1 another south Anogia 06/05. Pair displaying 23/04 Dikteo cave, Lasithi. Also seen: mounts Jouchtas, Skordilo and Paleocastro.
53. Eurasian Collared Dove
Streptopelia decaocto
(6). Not widespread. Common in Xania, Rethymnon, Iraklion and Knossos. Also seen in Kamilari.
54. European Turtle Dove
Streptopelia turtur
(14). Numerous migrants. 12 arriving from the sea 24/04 Kato Zakros and 6 ¿!
Hrissoskalitissa 02/05. Singers 02/05 Kisamos and 07/05 Thrapsano.
55. Common Cuckoo
Cuculus canorus
(1). 1, 30/04 Kournas.
56. European Scops Owl
Otus scops
(4). 3 singers night 20 to 21/04 ¿!
Knossos. Also Agios Georgios 23/04, Kato Zakros 25/04 and Kamilari (2 ind.) 26/04.
57. Common Swift
Apus apus
(22). Widespread. Very common in the cities.
58. Alpine Swift
Apus melba
(12). Seen in all the gorges. Colony in the cliff above the sea at Agia Galini.
59. Common Kingfisher
Alcedo atthis
(2). 1, 26/04 Kato Zakros and 28/04 Agia Galini.
60. European Bee-eater
Merops apiaster
(8). Not very common. Max. 24, 02/05 Hrissoskalitissa.
61. European Roller
Coracias garrulus
(1). This bird is rare in Crete. 1, 09/05 Apostoli.
62. Eurasian Hoopoe
Upupa epops
(4). The late 27/04 Gortys.
63. Eurasian Wryneck
Jynx torquilla
(4). All the data (5 ind.) from Lasithi 22 and 23/04.
64. Greater Short-toed Lark
Calandrella brachydactyla
(6). 6 migrants 29/04 Frangokastello and 1, 05/05 Rethymnon beach. 4 singers 23/04 Lasithi. 2 singers 07 and 08/05 Aposelemis mouth. Pair displaying, west de Limni Hersonisou 07/05.
65. Crested Lark
Galerida cristata
(24). Widespread, very common.
66. Woodlark
Lullula arborea
(11). Widespread on hills and mountains. 6 pairs on 4 km, Omalos plateau (1 feeding youngs at nest). Not seen under 200 m.
67. Sand Martin
Riparia riparia
(7). Numerous migrants between 26/04 and 08/05.
68. Eurasian Crag Martin
Ptyonoprogne rupestris
(8). In small number in gorges and cliffs.
69. Barn Swallow
Hirundo rustica
(27). Widespread and common.Numerous migrants 29/04 Frangocastello.
70. Red-rumped Swallow
Hirundo daurica
(2). 3 collecting mud near Kaloniktis 03/05 and 3 le 06/05 Livadia.
71. House Martin
Delichon urbica
(15). Numerous migrants 26/04 to 05/05. 2 pairs building nest 23/04 Agios Georgios.
72. Richard's Pipit
Anthus richardi
(1). 1, 29/04 near Frangokastello is the 8 for Crete.
73. Tawny Pipit
Anthus campestris
(3). 2, 29/04 Frangokastello ; 1, 02/15 Hrissoskalitissa. 7 (5 singers) in a 4 km walk, 01/05 Omalos plateau.
74. Tree Pipit
Anthus trivialis
(19). Widespread and common migrant.
75. Red-throated Pipit
Anthus cervinus
(5). 1, 29/04 Frangokastello ; 2, 01 then 3, 02/05 Kisamos ; 1, 07/05 Aposelemis mouth and 1 same day Thrapsano.
Motacilla (flava) feldegg ƒ
(8). 9, 24/04 Elounda. Seen at Frangokastelo, Kisamos, Platanes, Askifos, Aposelemis river and Thrapsano. Pair (male singing) 08/05 near Aposelemis mouth.
Motacilla flava thunbergi ƒ
(3). Elounda, Kisamos and Askifos.
77. White Wagtail
Motacilla alba
(9). Not widespread. Only on the coasts.
78. Winter Wren
Troglodytes troglodytes
(16). Common and widespread in hills and mountains, in the rocky and dry areas.
79. Common Nightingale
Luscinia megarhynchos
(5). Heared only 24/04 to 01/05.
81. Common Stonechat
Saxicola torquata
(29). Very common breeder.
82. Northern Wheatear
Oenanthe oenanthe
(7). Common in mountains near Anogia. Some pairs above the Lasithi.
83. Black-eared Wheatear
Oenanthe hispanica melanoleuca
(14). Widespread in rocky areas, from sea level to 1400 m.
Oenanthe hispanica hispanica ƒ
(1). 1 male Stomio bay 02/05.
84. Blue Rock Thrush
Monticola solitarius
(16). Common in gorges and cliffs, sometimes in villages (Paleocastro). 11 singers on 3 km in Kato Zakros gorge. Pairs feeding youngs 27/04 Moni Vrondissi, 06/05 Ideo cave and Platanes river.
85. Eurasian Blackbird
Turdus merula
(38). Common and widespread
86. Cetti's Warbler
Cettia cetti
(28). Common near water. Sometimes in drt areas (mounts Jouchtas). 6 singers on 500 m Aposelemis river. Very abundant Kournas lake.
88. Sedge Warbler
Acrocephalus schoenobaenus
(4). Migrants between 01 and 10/05 Kournas, Agia reservoir, Thrapsano and Aposelemis river (4 le 07/05).
89. Eurasian Reed Warbler
Acrocephalus scirpaceus
(6). Seen along the riparian forests. More than 30 on 500 m (!!) 07/05 along Aposelemis river, but only 5 here 08/05.
90. Great Reed Warbler
Acrocephalus arundinaceus
(11). More widespread but less common than the late species.
91. Olivaceous Warbler
Hippolais pallida
elaeicaƒ
(6). Frequent Migrant. 2 singers 30/04 Kournas lake ; 1 in olive trees 02/05 Hrissoskalitissa ; singers 04 and 06/05 Platanes river, 05/05 Georgioupoli lake and le 07/05 Aposelemis river.
100. Willow Warbler
Phylloscopus trochilus
(6). Seen in small number in riparian forests.
101. Spotted Flycatcher
Muscicapa striata
(25). Widespread. Pair building a nest 06/05 near Livadia.
102. Collared Flycatcher
Ficedula albicollis (2). 2 males 24/04 Kato Zakros. 1 f. 28/04 Moni Prevelli.
103. European Pied Flycatcher
Ficedula hypoleuca
(7). A few migrants.
104. Blue Tit
Parus caeruleus calamensis
(22). Widespread breeder.
105. Great Tit
Parus major
(32). Widespread under 1000 m.
106. Eurasian Golden Oriole
Oriolus oriolus
(10). Frequent Migrant in riparian forests. 4, 27/04 Gortys. 4 arriving from sea 02/05 Hrissoskalitissa.
107. Woodchat Shrike
Lanius senator
(13). Numerous 24/04 in the east of Crete.
¡
L. s. senator ƒ
: 1, 24/04 Elounda, 1, 02/05 Hrissoskalitissa and Stomio.
¡
L. s. badius ƒ
: 1, 23/04 Lasithi.
108. Eurasian Jay
Garrulus glandarius
(2). 1, 24/04 Lasithi and 1, 01/05 Nea Roumata.
109. Red-billed Chough
Pyrrhocorax pyrrhocorax
(4). On the Lasithi, 20 Ambelos Pass and 36 Kato Metohi 22/04 ; 2 Dikteo cave 23/04. Numerous between Anogia and the observatory 06/05.
110. Eurasian Jackdaw
Corvus monedula soemmerringii
(6). Colonies at Agia Irini aqueduc and in Kourtaliotiko gorge. Seen in the city of Mires, Festos archeological site and Paleocastro village.
111. Hooded Crow
Corvus corone sharpii
(36). Common and widespread.
112. Common Raven
Corvus corax
(21). Widespread. Nest with youngs 25/04 Kato Zakros gorge.
113. Italian Sparrow
Passer (domesticus) italiae
(49). Very common and widespread, also at great distance of human installations. We have not seen the House Sparrow Passer domesticusƒ
114. Spanish Sparrow
Passer hispaniolensis
(2). Moni Prevelli 28/04 and Kisamos 01/05, perhaps not full Spannish but intermediate between&Mac195;
italiaeƒ
hispaniolensisƒ
115. Eurasian Tree Sparrow
Passer montanus
(1). Not common in Crete. 1, 07/05 Thrapsano.
116. Chaffinch
Fringilla coelebs
(49). Very common and widespread.0. 17 singers /3 km Lasithi.
117. European Serin
Serinus serinus
(7). Not common, seen Lasithi, Kamilari, Moni Prevelli, Nteres, Prases and Agia reservoir.
118. European Greenfinch
Carduelis chloris
(42). Widespread and common. Not seen above 900 m.
119. European Goldfinch
Carduelis carduelis
(32).Widespread and common. Not seen above 900 m.
120. Eurasian Linnet
Carduelis cannabina
(15). Seen on hills and mountains. Some on the nord coast.
121. Yellowhammer
Emberiza citrinella
(1). 1 male seen 22/04 ¿!
Kato Metohi (Lasithi) is the 2nd for Crete.
123. Ortolan Bunting
Emberiza hortulana
(3). 1 then 2 singers Moni Prevelli 28 and 29/04. 1 singer Plakias 29/04.
124. Corn Bunting
Miliaria calandra
(10). Very abundant on Lasithi with 38 ind. (26 singers)/3 km. Common Askifos, but not seen Omalos. Common near Frangokastello.
Rabbit
Oryctolagus cuniculus
(1). near Geropotamos mouth and Festos.
Ship Rat
Rattus rattus
(1). Kisamos.
Weasel
Mustela nivalis
(4). Kamilari, Prases, Hrissoskalitissos and mounts Jouchtas.
Beech Marten
Martes foina
(2). Agios Georgios and Drapanias.
Badger
Meles meles
(1). Hrissoskalitissa.
AMPHIBIANS
Only 3 species in Crete.
Green Toad
Bufo viridis
(3). East Plakias, Platanas. Limni Hersonisou.
Common Tree-Frog
Hyla arborea
(5). Abundant on Lasithi and Kato Zakros. Also Thrapsano, Agia reservoir and Moni Prevelli.
Marsh Frog
Rana ridibunda
(6). Common Kournas, Georgioupoli, Thrapsano and Aposelemis mouth. Some near Agia Irini (sur de Knossos) and east Plakias.
REPTILES
1. Stripe-necked Terrapin
Mauremys caspica
(4). Abundant Thrapsano and Georgioupoli lakes and Agia reservoir. Some near the Aposelemis mouth. Very shy.
2. Balkan Green Lizard
Lacerta trilineata
(15). Common and widespread.
