The Baltic coastline of Lithuania and Latvia offers hundreds of kilometres of relatively underwatched areas of migration, and with both countries now being fully accessible and also developing an infrastructure for tourism, we decided to spend the Easter break undertaking what was essentially a "reconnaissance" visit.
Highlights included excellent views of migrating
divers, Long-tailed Ducks, cranes, Rough-legged Buzzards and
Sparrowhawks, six
White-tailed Eagles, huge flocks of
White-Fronted Geese and a small flock of
Tundra geese and the monument to Frank Zappa in Vilnius!
Along the way, we thoroughly enjoyed exploring the fascinating and beautiful landscapes of both countries and enjoyed excellent hospitality and food!
Travel
We flew with Scandinavian Airlines (SAS) Manchester to Vilnius via Copenhagen. (We chose to start and finish in Lithuania because car-hire rates are considerably cheaper there than in Latvia).
We spent the first night in Vilnius partly to get over a horribly early start from Manchester and also to do a little sightseeing in Vilnius. We arrived early afternoon in light drizzle (the only rain we were to see for the entire trip) and spent the rest of the day sightseeing (including the only statue in the world erected to Frank Zappa) and sampling the delights of coffee-houses and (in the evening) restaurants and bars.
Car hire and accommodation in Vilnius was arranged through Litinterp
http://www.litinterp.com/ a very friendly and efficient company who accept Visa and Mastercard and whose staff were all fluent in English. They also offer a pickup service from Vilnius airport for euro14. (They also offer accommodation in other areas of Lithuania). The room we had was above their office in the Old Town of Vilnius (just a 2 minute walk from the main Old Town area) and was clean, comfortable and quiet. A twin room with private facilities and breakfast was euro 41 for two people.
The car provided was an almost brand new Renault Megane which was perfect for the two of us plus luggage, scopes etc. The cost, including full waivers, two drivers and insurance to drive in Latvia was €485 for 8 days.
Accommodation
For our two nights on the Nemunus Delta we stayed at Vilkenu Malunas Hotel in Sveksna ((0037 044148371) This is a fascinating hotel made from an old watermill with many of the original water features still in place. The room we had was superb - a twin en-suite room its own large and comfortable sitting room - ideal for relaxing with a whisky while doing the log! Sveksna is a small village about 20 mins drive from the main delta area but has the advantage of the roads not being flooded - an unknown quantity when travelling around the Delta in Spring. The hotel served a hearty breakfast and had its own restaurant. Unfortunately, they do not have email and the staff did not speak very much English although we did manage to book the room by phone from the UK. However once there we needed a combination of Russian/English and pointing at a Lithuanian phrase book to communicate! The staff were very friendly and helpful and did their best to please. The cost of the hotel was a very reasonable euro 29 per night for two people. Although they advertised that they took Visa, their machine would not accept either of our cards and we paid cash.
Our two nights on the Curonian Spit where in Nida, a very pretty town which is predominantly a German holiday resort in the Summer. As a result, there are plenty of restaurants etc with staff who speak German and also English. We booked via the Hotel Smilte
http://www.is.lt/smilte and were placed in the comfortable Villa "Banga Guest House where we had a twin ensuite room with breakfast for euro 35 per night for two people. Again, there was no facility for paying by Visa.
We had not booked accommodation for the middle night of the trip as we were unsure whether we would wish to stay longer in Lithuania. However we decided to head for Latvia and stay the night in Pavilosta. This was not such a good idea as it turned out. Sea watching opportunities were very limited and accommodation even more so! The only accommodation was a half-built motel with limited facilities at the relative expensive price of euro 20 per person per night for a twin room. With hindsight we should have either stopped at Liepaja or continued to Ventspils.
Our stay at Kolka was very different and in many ways the highlight of the trip. We stayed at the Usi Guesthouse, (booked via
http://www.kolka.info ) a small farm guesthouse run by two delightful sisters who speak good English and are excellent cooks! The cost for a twin room with breakfast and evening meal was euro 41 for two persons per night. Credit cards not taken.
Literature
We could find very little literature available for Latvia and even less for Lithuania. For general information about the countries and finding accommodation we used The Lonely Planet Guide to Estonia, Latvia and Lithuania. We also found a website about the Nemunus Delta
http://www.network-ecotourism.de/en/delta_en.htm
For Latvia, there is more information available and we found the website Latvian Birding
http://www.putni.lv/index_eng.htm very useful, especially its links to Birding Sites
http://www.ltn.lv/~peach/kur_frames_eng.htm which has good maps and information.
Thomas Cook publishes a phrase book in 8 different Eastern European languages including Lithuanian and Latvian.
Language
Not many people other than young people spoke English. Apart from their native languages, the most widely understood language was Russian although it was not always received warmly particularly in Lithuania. German was particularly useful on the Curonian Spit. However, the phrase book referred to above was a good standby.
Weather
Apart from drizzle on arrival in Vilnius, the weather was dry and mostly sunny. Early mornings were usually below zero but by mid-morning temperatures of 10C were reached. On the last day we had a mini heatwave of 18C and actually used the a/c on the car!
Daily log
11th April 04
We left the hotel at dawn having had to scrape the car free from ice. It was -4°C and the whole area was shrouded in a freezing mist. We drove towards the delta and as we approached the Nemunas National Park, the mist lifted and it was dry, sunny but still very cold. We drove straight to Vente Ragas which was deserted. The impressively large Heligoland traps were closed and the only bird life was a raft of 100
Coot and about the same number of
Tufted Duck. We drove slowly back to the Hotel for breakfast and had a flock of 10
Tundra Geese by the roadside. After breakfast we returned to the Delta and spent sometime at the first bridge on the Silute to Rusno road just south of Silute. This is an excellent spot to scope the wetlands as there is easy offroad parking and good uninterrupted views. There was a mixed flock of ducks including
Garganey, Pintail, Shoveler and
Wigeon as well as
Whooper Swans either side of the road as well as large numbers of
White Fronted Geese . Throughout the day we estimated a minimum of 7000 geese were present in the delta. The day was spent slowly exploring the small roads around the delta area. A
Black-throated Diver was seen just west of the first bridge and a total of at least 3
White-tailed Eagles ( 2 adults and a juvenile) were seen at three separate sites. 2
Bitterns were heard booming during a tea break in the reedbeds close to Uostavaris.
Selected Species Count for the day:
Black-throated Diver 1, Cormorant 3, Grey heron 15, Bittern 2, Mute swan 20, Whooper Swan 10, White-fronted Goose 7000, Tundra Goose 10, Greylag Goose 2, Barnacle Goose 6, Pintail 30, Garganey 10, Pochard 4, Scaup 15, Tufted Duck 50, Goldeneye 10, Shoveler 10, Teal 15, Goosander 6, White-tailed Eagle 3, Marsh Harrier 10, Common Buzzard 2, Common Crane 2, Green Sandpiper 1, Curlew 1, Herring Gull 10, Stock Dove 2.
12th April 04
Another early-morning ice-scraping before heading straight to the bridge on the Silute to Rusno road. There were fewer geese in evidence but excellent light on a wide variety of wildfowl. After breakfast drove to Vente Ragas were there were good numbers of
Scaup, Great Crested Grebe and
Tufted Duck and 2
White-tailed Eagles. We had planned to follow small roads alongside the lagoon up to Klaipeda, but none of the roads we could find gave any views of the lagoon and we eventually abandoned that idea and drove straight to the ferry terminal for the Curonian Spit. The ferry service operates every 30 minutes and the crossing time is 10 minutes. The whole of the Spit is a National Park and a small charge is made to enter it. The landscape is amazing, at no point is the Spit more than 4km wide and between the few small holiday villages that have been developed the scenery is entirely one of sand dunes which in places has been afforested by pines. Most of the holiday activities obviously take place on the lagoon side of the Spit which was pretty uninteresting birdwise. However, the Baltic side (which is largely undeveloped) had excellent passage of divers and ducks. On arrival at Nida we spent the remaining time checking suitable seawatching sites for the following morning.
Selected Species Count for the day:
Great Crested Grebe 50, White-fronted Goose 1500, Greylag Goose 2, Barnacle Goose 10, Shelduck 3, Garganey 1, Pochard 10, Scaup 100, Tufted Duck 200, White-tailed Eagle 2, Marsh Harrier 1, Common Buzzard 1, Curlew 2, Great Grey Shrike 1.
13th April 04
The regular ice-scraping began at first light before driving 1km to a beach viewing spot we had identified the previous day. The light was excellent and there were rafts of
Velvet Scoter, Common Scoter and
Red-throated Diver sitting close in to shore with additional numbers passing through. There was also a large number of
Long-tailed Ducks sitting or feeding. After a couple of hours of excellent seawatching with a variety of wildfowl (and
Woodlarks singing overhead) we decided to explore the West Coast whilst the sun was in a good position for viewing and discovered an excellent sea watching tower just 2 km further north than where we had been earlier. The elevation was very good but there was only room for two people with scopes (which was fine for us). In the afternoon we explored close to the Russian border (Kaliningrad) which is an area of amazing dunes and looks more Saharan than Eastern European. A flock of migrating
Common Crane flew overhead just to remind us which continent we were in!
Selected Species Count for the day:
Red-throated Diver 172, Black-throated Diver 2, Slavonian Grebe 30, Great Crested Grebe 5, Red-necked Grebe 1, Grey Heron 25, Whooper Swan 7, Barnacle Goose 120, Shoveler 2, Wigeon 23, Teal 6, Scaup 1, Tufted Duck 6, Common Eider 2, Common Scoter 60, Velvet Scoter 200, Long-Tailed Duck 600, Goldeneye 1, Goosander 5, Red-Breasted Merganser 30, Common Crane 41, Great Spotted Woodpecker 1, Black Redstart 1, Long-tailed Tit 1, Treecreeper 1, Yellowhammer 1.
14th April 04
An early morning seawatch from the tower found yesterday produced a big passage of
Red-throated Divers and
Long-tailed Duck, but with fewer birds sitting on the sea. Drove back towards the ferry terminal, stopping at a Cormorant reserve on the way. This is the largest breeding site in Lithuania and has over 1700 pairs breeding, alongside large numbers of
Grey Heron. An excellent (and thankfully covered) viewing platform has been built which gives good views of the whole site. Returning to Klaipeda, we drove North into Latvia and to Lake Pape. This is a very good reed/wetland area with a comfortable hide. Unfortunately there were virtually no birds showing and so we left and continued North having decided to spend the night in the coastal village of Pavilosta, which on the map looked as if it would be an interesting seawatching place. At this time of year there is hardly any accommodation available for tourists. The houses which take in guests in the summer do not do so this early in the year and the sole place to stay was a half-completed and overpriced Motel. The shoreline of Pavilosta is not as accessible as it appears on the map but we did find identify one dune spot for the next day.
Selected Species Count for the day:
Red-throated Diver 474, Black-throated Diver 2, Slavonian Grebe 2, Great Crested Grebe 6, Greylag Goose 6 (Lake Pape), Gadwall 2, Pintail 2, Shoveler 6, Wigeon 23, Teal 17, Garganey 14, Scaup 6, Common Scoter 70, Velvet Scoter 85, Long-Tailed Duck 764, Goldeneye 3, Red-Breasted Merganser 15, Marsh Harrier 5, Common Buzzard 10, Kestrel 1, Great Grey Shrike 1, Bullfinch 1.
15th April 04
Early morning seawatch was difficult because although the weather and light were both good, the birds were passing very far out from land. Drove North to Kolka stopping at various coastal points on route, arriving in Kolka at lunchtime. The afternoon was spent at Kolkasrags, the absolute tip of the Cape jutting out into the Baltic. The light and views were wonderful and we immediately became aware of a steady number of raptors (mainly
Sparrowhawk) migrating through.
Selected Species Count for the day:
Red-throated Diver 18 (Pavilosta), 3 (Kolka), Great Crested Grebe 10 (Pavilosta), 10 (Kolka), Shelduck 2 (Kolka), Pintail 2 (Pavilosta), Wigeon 100 (Pavilosta), Teal 50 (Pavilosta), 10 (Kolka), Garganey 1 (Pavilosta), Eider 2 (Kolka), Velvet Scoter 100 (Pavilosta), 5 (Kolka), Long-Tailed Duck 50 (Pavilosta), 50 (Kolka), Goldeneye 2 (Pavilosta), Goosander 1(Pavilosta), Red-Breasted Merganser 3 (Kolka), Marsh Harrier 1 (Pavilosta), Rough-legged Buzzard 4 (Kolka), Sparrowhawk 10 (Kolka), Oystercatcher 1 (Kolka), Ringed Plover 2 (Pavilosta), Sandwich Tern 2 (Kolka), Commic Tern 2 (Kolka), Woodpigeon 150 (Kolka), Mistle Thrush 10 (Kolka), Great Grey Shrike 1 (Kolka).
16th April 04
At Kolkasrags for dawn. Virtually no wind and temperature just below zero. Only a few
Sparrowhawk moving with very little movement on the sea. There was however some passerine activity in the woods around the Cape with flocks of
Fieldfare, Linnet, Jay and
Woodpigeon all attempting to move. In the afternoon large numbers of
Common Crane migrated very low overhead, filling the air with their unmistakable call.
Selected Species Count for the day:
Red-throated Diver 7, Black-throated Diver 1, Great Crested Grebe 10, Cormorant 20, Shelduck 3, Teal 2, Eider 20, Common Scoter 100, Velvet Scoter 10, Long-Tailed Duck 100, Goosander 2, Red-Breasted Merganser 6, Rough-legged Buzzard 3, Common Buzzard 3, Sparrowhawk 10, Kestrel 1, Common Crane 2000, Oystercatcher 1, Curlew 450, Woodpigeon 300, Black Redstart 2, Mistle Thrush 15, Fieldfare 300, Willow Tit 10, Jay 10, Starling 100, Linnet 75, Siskin 20.
17th April 04
Another fine, windless morning but this time considerable movement at sea as well as
Sparrowhawk migration and a small flock of
Common Crane. After the first hour of daylight flocks of passerines also began to emerge from the woods including a large flock of Jay, Chaffinch (mixed with a few
Brambling), Woodpigeon and Fieldfare. Late morning we drove to Riga calling in at Mersrags and Lake Endure on route. The potential for these spots is obvious but there was little bird activity apart from a booming
Bittern and 2
Red-necked Grebe at Lake Endure.
Selected Species Count for the day:
Red-throated Diver 98, Black-throated Diver 4, Cormorant 8, Shelduck 2, Eider 10, Goldeneye 2, Common Scoter 20, Velvet Scoter 20, Long-Tailed Duck 100, Goosander 2, Red-Breasted Merganser 3, Marsh Harrier 1, Rough-legged Buzzard 2, Common Buzzard 1, Sparrowhawk 15, Common Crane 27, Stock Dove 1, Woodpigeon 100, Great Spotted Woodpecker 1, Fieldfare 100, Jay 70, Chaffinch 1000, Siskin 40, Hawfinch 2.
Conclusions
As an initial exploratory visit, we were very impressed with the potential offered by both Lithuania and Latvia for future visits. The timing of the trip was dictated by the Easter holidays and the amazing lack of waders was presumably down to the fact that we were too late for some and too early for others. We were very impressed with the movements of wildfowl in both countries and would certainly wish to revisit, probably for longer periods in each country. We did not have the time to explore either country away from its coastline, but there is clearly excellent habitat for a wide range of species.
The abiding impression we left with is that both countries offer enormous opportunities for high quality birding, have a developing tourism infrastructure which given the hospitable nature we encountered, can only lead to increased business and we fully intend to return quickly to explore in more detail.
Systematic list
Red-throated Diver
Gavia stellata
Black-throated Diver
Gavia arctica
Great Crested Grebe
Podiceps cristatus
Red-necked Grebe
Podiceps grisigena
Slavonian Grebe
Podiceps auritus
Cormorant
Phalacrocorax carbo
Bittern
Botaurus stellaris
Grey Heron
Ardea cinerea
White Stork
Ciconia ciconia
Mute Swan
Cygnus olor
Whooper Swan
Cygnus cygnus
White-fronted Goose
Anser albifrons
Tundra Goose
Anser fabilis rossicus
Greylag Goose
Anser anser
Barnacle Goose
Branta leucopsis
Shelduck
Tadorna tadorna
Wigeon
Anas penelope
Gadwall
Anas strepera
Teal
Anas crecca
Mallard
Anas platyrhynchos
Pintail
Anas acuta
Garganey
Anas querquedula
Shoveler
Anas clypeata
Pochard
Aythya farina
Tufted Duck
Aythya fuligula
Scaup
Aythya marila
Eider
Somateria mollissima
Long-tailed Duck
Clangula hyemalis
Common Scoter
Melanitta nigra
Velvet Scoter
Melanitta fusca
Goldeneye
Bucephala clangula
Red-breasted Merganser
Mergus serrator
Goosander
Mergus merganser
White-tailed Eagle
Haliaeetus albicilla
Marsh Harrier
Circus aeruginosus
Common Buzzard
Buteo buteo
Rough-legged Buzzard
Buteo lagopus
Sparrowhawk
Accipiter nisus
Kestrel
Falco tinnunculus
Coot
Fulica atra
Common Crane
Grus grus
Oystercatcher
Haematopus ostralegus
Ringed Plover
Charadrius hiaticula
Lapwing
Vanellus vanellus
Green Sandpiper
Tringa ochropus
Curlew
Numenius arquata
Black-headed Gull
Larus ridibundus
Common Gull
Larus canus
Lesser Black-backed Gull
Larus fuscus
Herring Gull
Larus argentatus
Great Black-backed Gull
Larus marinus
Sandwich Tern
Sterna sandvicensis
"Commic" Tern
Sterna hirundo/paradisaea
Feral Pigeon
Columba livia
Stock Dove
Columba oenas
Woodpigeon
Columba palumbus
Great Spotted Woodpecker
Dendrocopos major
Woodlark
Lullula arborea
Skylark
Alauda arvensis
Meadow Pipit
Anthus pratensis
White Wagtail
Motacilla alba
Robin
Erithacus rubecula
Black Redstart
Phoenicurus ochruros
Blackbird
Turdus merula
Fieldfare
Turdus pilaris
Song Thrush
Turdus philomelos
Mistle Thrush
Turdus vicivorus
Chiffchaff
Phylloscopus collybita
Goldcrest
Regulus regulus
Long-tailed Tit
Aegithalos caudatus
Willow Tit
Parus montanus
Blue Tit
Parus caeruleus
Great Tit
Parus major
Treecreeper
Certhia familiaris
Great Grey Shrike
Lanius excubitor
Jay
Garrulus monedula
Magpie
Pica pica
Jackdaw
Corvus monedula
Rook
Corvus frugilegus
Hooded Crow
Corvus corone cornix
Raven
Corvus corax
Starling
Sturnus vulgaris
House Sparrow
Passer domesticus
Chaffinch
Fringilla coelebs
Brambling
Fringilla montifringilla
Greenfinch
Carduelis chloris
Goldfinch
Carduelis carduelis
Siskin
Carduelis spinus
Linnet
Carduelis cannabina
Bullfinch
Pyrrhula pyrrhula
Hawfinch
Coccothraustes coccothraustes
Yellowhammer
Emberiza citronella
Reed Bunting
Emberiza schoeniclus
