Mallorca is the largest of the Balearic Islands at fifty miles long and almost as wide, and is situated off the eastern coast of Spain. Although a popular tourist resort, there are still largely unspoilt areas, particularly in the mountains. During the spring months of April and May the islands hold significant numbers of passerines and raptors as they move north. Dirk Raes from the Belgian ornithological society De Wielewaal reports for us on a recent trip he guided from 8th until 15th May 1998.
Following a late-evening flight, we 'dropped down' shortly after midnight at the Hotel Cala Marsal in Porto Colom, on the east coast of Mallorca. This hotel is situated in good birding surroundings with good food and a good price.
On the 9th of May - after only 4 hours sleeping - we opted for a relatively calm start with a good walk starting at the depuradora - just out of the village of Arta. From this water-treatment installation you can make a good walk towards the Cala Torta. The walk brings you through the most different areas. A Little Ringed Plover (Charadrius dubius) and a Common Sandpiper (Tringa hypoleucos) were at the depuradora. Further on you walk along private gardens and fields in which we had great views of Hoopoe (Upupa epops), Bee-eater (Merops apiaster), Cirl Bunting (Emberiza cirlus), Cetti's Warbler (Cettia cetti) and Fan-tailed Warbler (Cisticola juncidis). Continuing this road and climbing up, you arrive at an impressive rock mass, which produced Booted Eagle (Hieraaetus pennatus), Crag Martin (Hirundo rupestris), Blue Rock Trush (Monticola solitarius) and a Woodchat Shrike (Lanius senator). During the picnic another Booted Eagle (Hieraaetus pennatus) passed by. In April, I have seen Peregrine Falcon here.
Continuing towards the coast line, during the afternoon, regular Thekla Lark (Galerida theklae) and Stonechat (Saxicola torquata) were spotted. Very good was a Tawny Pipit (Anthus campestris) at some 15m distance.
During the late-afternoon a visit was paid to the old town of Arta. Apart from the first beers, a flock of over 200 Swifts (Apus apus) and one Booted Eagle (Hieraaetus pennatus) came over. Mea culpa, we were lazy and didn't check the swifts for Pallid !
The 10th of May, we chose to visit the Salinas de Levante in the south. This area consists of an active and a non-active salina - or saltpan. An Osprey (Pandion haliaetus) was hanging around. The place is well known for waders and we found them in abundance: Ringed Plover (Charadrius hiaticula), Kentish Plover (Charadrius alexandrinus) - a colour-ringed pair with one young - Little Stint (Calidris minuta), a bunch of 16 -very good to see - Curlew Sandpipers (Calidris ferruginea), some Sanderling (Calidris alba), a few Spotted Redshank (Tringa erythropus), a Greenshank (Tringa nebularia), several Wood Sandpipers (Tringa glareola), Common Sandpiper (Tringa hypoleucos), and of course a lot of Black-winged Stilts (Himantopus himantopus) and a couple of Avocets (Recurvirostra avosetta). Near the Salinas were Stone Curlew (Burchinus oedicnemus) – probably breeding. Also some Little Egrets (Egretta garzetta) were seen. The Fan-tailed Warblers (Cisticola juncidis) started, with their zipping, slowly but sure to work on our nerves. A Water Rail (Rallus aquaticus) was good to see and hear. Some discussion ensued on a Yellow Wagtail – "iberica" type (Motacilla flava iberiae). The direct area of the active salinas provided - due to the fact that a field was just ploughed - extremely good views of a sunbathing Hoopoe (Upupa epops), some Wheatears (Oenanthe oenanthe), Short-toed Lark (Calandrella brachydactyla) and Whinchat (Saxicola rubetra). The day was again hot and during the late afternoon we headed towards Cala Figuera. Just out of the bus and an Audouin's Gull (Larus audouinii) passed over. Apart from cervessa (=beer) time, some Cory's Shearwaters ( Calonectris diomedea) and several Balearic Shearwaters (Puffinus (yelkouan) mauretanicus) drfited along the coast and a Blue Rock Trush (Monticola solitarius) was seen. The pleasure for some members of our group was having a sangria whilst, in front of them, was a superb Audouin's Gull (Larus audouinii).
In fact I should give an up-date on the observations made around the hotel. As told it's a great place to do a lot of birding every morning and evening. The last day -15th- we made also a walk towards the old fishing harbour and further on towards the lighthouse. Some of the highlights of five early-morning walks, two late-evening tours and a morning close to the lighthouse. Apart from Nightingales (Luscinia megarhynchos) - which are terrorizing you from the hotel garden during the night - we had three different singing-posts of Scops Owls (Otus scops). A Barn Owl (Tyto alba) and - as well during the day as during the night - several Stone Curlews (Burchinus oedicnemus). The Spotted Flycatcher (Muscicapa striata) was common as well as the Sardinian Warbler (Sylvia melanocephala). Only one Marmora's Warbler (Sylvia sarda), a Cetti's Warbler (Cettia cetti) and several Hoopoe's (Upupa epops) are in close range of the hotel, and no Crossbills (Loxia curvirostra) on this trip. After a walk of five minutes you can reach the Cala marsal beach, which produced on the 14th two Audouin's Gull (Larus audouinii) and towards the new building area (direction sea) we found Cirl Bunting (Emberiza cirlus) and daily from the rocks close to the sea, Shag (Phalacrocorax aristotelis) of the Mediterranean subspecies desmarestii, Cory's Shearwaters ( Calonectris diomedea) and several Balearic Shearwaters (Puffinus (yelkouan) mauretanicus) and one day a Grey Heron (Ardea cinera) on migration low over the water. The morning of the 11th produced an incoming flight of 16 Bee-eaters (Merops apiaster). The morning of the 15th a walk from the fishing-village of Porto Colom towards the light-house brought us a Thekla Lark (Galerida theklae) and a Short-toed Lark (Calandrella brachydactyla) with close to a fig-orchard an Icterine Warbler (Hippolais icterina). Finally a closer look at the swifts gave us Pallid Swift (Apus pallidus). As you see Porto Colom is well worth a stay.
The Cuber reservoir, the place to be for raptors ! On the 11th. we went first to the monastery of Lluc for the cultural part of the trip. The Blue Tit (Parus caeruleus) was new for the list as these birds only occur from a certain altitude. From about 12.15 until 4pm we visited the Cuber reservoir just at the foot of Puig Major. Eight species of raptor and some 'minor' observations were the result: Osprey (Pandion haliaetus), Honey Buzzard (Pernis apivorus), Booted Eagle (Hieraaetus pennatus), Egyptian Vulture (Neophron percnopterus) - one of the two birds on Mallorca - at least seven Black Vultures (Aegypius monachus), a Griffon Vulture (Gyps fulvus) - the only bird on Mallorca ! - a Marsh Harrier (Circus aeruginosus) and a Kestrel (Falco tinnunculus). The 'minor' species were Spectacled Warbler (Sylvia conspicillata), Rock Trush (Monticola saxatilis), Raven (Corvus corax) and Bonelli's Warbler (Phylloscopus bonelli). Time for a beer or two !
The Bocquer valley -with a view from the mirador close to Puerto Pollensa - was our target for the 12th. The day started well with close views of Raven (Corvus corax), Hoopoes (Upupa epops), a Blue Rock Trush (Monticola solitarius) and a Cirl Bunting (Emberiza cirlus). Crag Martins (Hirundo rupestris) were abundant as well as the famous Eleonora's Falcon (Falco eleonora) with up to 16 counted. The observation of the day was a Blue Rock Trush (Monticola solitarius) and a Wryneck (Jynx torquilla) together in a dead tree . 'Minors' were a Quail (Coturnix coturnix), a Red-legged Partridge (Alectoris rufa) and a Common Redstart (Phoenicurus phoenicurus) In a visit in April to this valley I had seen 5 Red Kites (Milvis milvus), 2 Black Kites (Milvus nigrans) and a Booted Eagle (Hieraaetus pennatus) pass through. You probably can imagine that evening was a celebration one, especially when the call of the Scops Owl (Otus scops) was heard from the terrace of the hotel.
On the 13th we were able to rent a boat for the whole group. This boat brought us to the island of Cabrera, just south-east of Mallorca. This great trip - as on the sea as on the land - provided us with even better views of Shag (Phalacrocorax aristotelis) Mediterranean subspecies desmarestii, Cory's Shearwaters ( Calonectris diomedea) and Balearic Shearwaters (Puffinus (yelkouan mauretanicus). The Cory's were following the boat at about 20m together with Yellow-legged Gulls (Larus cachinnans) and Audouin's Gull (Larus audouinii). On the island we visited the ornithological ringing station and its surroundings which allowed us to have a close look at Pied Flycatcher (Ficedula hypoleuca) and Chiffchaff (Phylloscopus collybita) and a Blue Rock Trush (Monticola solitarius). In April there was a Woodchat Shrike (Lanius senator) here. In the harbour an Eleonora's Falcon (Falco eleonora) and an Osprey (Pandion haliaetus) passed by. From the boat - close to Porto Colom - a pair a Peregrines (Falco peregrinus) were resting on the rocks. Probably a breeding territory.
The morning of the 14th: rain, rain and rain. I managed to convince the group to head for the Albufera marshland. The result of the day was just startling: close looks at Little Bittern (Ixobrychus minutus), Night Heron (Nycticorax nycticorax), Squacco Heron (Ardeola ralloides) – as many as 5 birds - one Great White Egret (Egretta alba), Little Egret (Egretta garzetta), Grey Heron (Ardea cinerea) and of course Purple Heron (Ardea purpurea). On another trip in April we had found two top-of-the-bill Sacred Ibis (Threskionisa aethiopicus) here. In the nearby salinas were three Greater Flamingos (Phoenicopterus ruber) and several red-crested Pochards (Netta rufina) and the Albufera Purple Gallinule (Porphyrio porphyrio) - one bird with young. Cetti's Warblers (Cettia cetti), Fan-tailed Warblers (Cisticola juncidis) and Great Reed Warblers (Acrocephalus arundinaceus) were in full song. In front of one hide several waders included Little Stint (Calidris minuta), Curlew Sandpiper (Calidris ferruginea) and Wood Sandpiper (Tringa glareola). Despite the rain, a very good birding day.
During the afternoon we undertook a great walk (5.2km. one way) starting at a point along the road Felanitx-Campos towards the Castell de Santueri. I will always remember this day as the day of the Stone Curlew (Burchinus oedicnemus). Flying, sitting, or breeding, make your choice. Just great – with as meany as 15 different birds possibly. The walk, itself, is also wonderful; about three hours along with carob, almond and fig-trees. Birds enough: just right for a last day. The walk stops at the Castell de Santueri (some 400m. high), which -apart from a great view - produced Crag Martin (Hirundo rupestris), Raven (Corvus corax) and one - of the relict population - Alpine Swift (Apus melba). On a different trip in April we had had our bird of the day in the form of a fine Ortolan Bunting (Emberiza hortulana) here.
As you see a great birding time on an island not so far away.
If you have enjoyed reading this please mail me at dirk.raes@ping.be
