This was a one-week self-catering family holiday taken with Airtours to the "Oro Playa" apartments in Port de Pollenca.
The flights to and from Norwich via Palma were on time and went smoothly, and the coach transfers via Alcudia took just over an hour.
The apartments delivered just what we wanted - clean and reasonably quiet with bar, restaurant and large pool on site. The complex's own supermarket is the one mentioned by Hearl in his directions for the Bocquer Valley.
Activities and entertainment were provided for children during the day and early evening, with family entertainment later on. For the family, we were less than100m from the beach and the northern end of Port de Pollenca's "promenade", with many and varied affordable restaurants nearby. For the birder, we were right next to the avenue of pines leading to the Bocquer Valley and within striking distance of all the significant birding sites in the north east of the Island.
We had pre-booked car hire, but we were messed around by the care hire firm (Hiper), although we were eventually "up-graded" (not, we felt, out of generosity but because by the time they had sorted things out this was the only immediately available vehicle). We would not pre-book in future as there were plenty of firms to choose from in town. We had hired the car for five days, but on reflection probably only needed three - the family found more than enough to do in Port de Pollenca itself, and the birding only required a car for the Albufera and the Tramantura Mountains sites west of Pollenca Town. The rest could be covered on foot or by hired bicycle.
Graham Hearl's "A Birdwatching Guide to Mallorca" was a very good companion, but my copy of Eddie Watkinson's guide from my last visit in 1988 was rather out of date! I was able to access numerous trip reports from the internet, and these added a little to Hearl's information. I had several really useful e-mail responses to an RFI on the Surfbirds newsgroup (www.surfbirds.com) some of which were from birders who had recently returned from Mallorca holidays.
I tried to strike a balance between birding, actually spending some time with my very understanding family, and getting in some relaxation of my own, so I happily restricted myself to the sites in the north east, travelling no further south than the Albufera, with my longest trip west to Cuber - about 40k from Port de Pollenca.
The weather during our stay was generally very hot and sunny (high 20's to low 30's), although we had a morning of showers on the 14th and thunder, rain and high winds on the morning of the 15th through into mid afternoon, before it became fine for the evening.
Sites visited:
The Bocquer Valley:
Our apartment, at the "Oro Playa" Hotel was situated above the "Oro Playa Supermarket" mentioned in the directions for the Bocquer Valley in Graham Hearl's book. The avenue of pines has been preserved among the on-going development, but at the avenue's northern end a new by-pass is almost complete and will clearly open soon.
Although as yet there is no development to the north of this new road, ground is clearly being prepared, so the omens are not great.
However, the access track via the Finca, and the orchards surrounding the Finca are still there. The gates on the access track were not locked, nor were the gates from the Finca to the valley itself. Finca residents were outside on a couple of evenings, and were very pleasant to people passing through the terrace.
Staying so close, I visited the valley on several occasions, always seeing a good variety of birds. Eleanora's Falcons could usually be found along the northern ridge, particularly at the seaward end. Blue Rock Thrush was much more difficult than I had expected, with only two sightings, one on rocks on the slope to the sea and another on the southern slopes at the beginning of the valley. Marmora's ("Balearic") Warblers were resident in the area of scrub to the left of the track at the seaward end, with at least three pairs (and probably more) usually performing well. I saw individual Booted Eagles (at least two different birds) on several visits - usually at the end of the valley nearest the Finca, and a personal highlight was an Egyptian Vulture over the northern ridge early morning on the 9th of June. A pair of Stone Curlews were resident in the valley bottom near to the small pine copse, and Red-legged Partridges could be heard calling all along the valley.
Other resident birds included Sardinian Warblers, Serins, Spotted Flycatchers and Cirl Buntings (including a pair feeding fledged young near the entrance track). A pair of Woodchats were resident near the track entrance, where Hoopoe was also a regular bird.
On evening visits Scop's Owls could be heard calling from woods and trees below and across the valley from the Finca. On one still evening close and distant birds probably totalled at least six. On two evenings two birds were seen around the entrance track a few metres beyond the Finca buildings.
Port de Pollenca:
Audouin's Gulls were much more in evidence than I had expected. They were frequently at the river mouths, and usually on the breakwaters off the beach (up to 8), but also over the beaches north of the town several times. The breakwaters also usually held Shags - with up to 9 present at any time, even when bathers had swum out to sit on the rocks.
I visited the area of the "Smelly Stream" mentioned in Hearl's book. In June things were quiet, but even so I saw Osprey overhead and had numerous Fan-tailed Warblers, Serins etc. as well as an unexpected Garden Warbler.
Albufera:
I spent an excellent long morning at the Albufera on June 10th. It appears that it is no longer possible to drive down the entrance track to the reserve, so I parked in the small car park which is just south of the entrance on the western (reserve) side of the main C712 road and walked in. I arrived just before 8 am and the gates were already open, although had they been locked the gap in the wall mentioned by Hearl is still perfectly accessible.
The long walk down the entrance track was no imposition. There is a large heronry in trees over the river just to the north of the beginning of the track. Cattle Egrets predominated, but Night Herons were flying in and out all the time. Nightingales and Cetti's Warblers abounded, and were far more obliging than their British counterparts. Several female Red-crested Pochards with their young were in the many small channels.
While on the reserve I visited areas 1 - 5 shown in Hearl. The scrapes held breeding Kentish Plovers,Little Ringed Plovers and Black-winged Stilts, as well as "Spanish" Yellow Wagtails. Purple Herons seemed to be everywhere - any sweep of a reed-bed producing flying birds, with Cattle Egrets and Night Herons running them a close second. Standing at the locked gate on the track just beyond the Watkinson hide for a few minutes produced two Little Bitterns flying between reed-beds, two Great Reed Warblers singing from reed tops and up to four rather distant Eleanora's Falcons over the open areas.
Elsewhere, two confiding Moustached Warblers were in reeds near the mound, and a single adult Squacco Heron was on the scrape from the CIM hide. Around the reserve were Purple Gallinule (2), Crested Coot (4+ including two with neck-collars) and Hoopoes, together with the usual Serins, Sardinian Warblers and even 6+ Black-headed Gulls!
Depuradora de S'Illot:
I visited the Depuradora on the 12th of June, primarily to see the breeding Bee-eaters. Hearl's directions work well. Initially I parked by the hide, but finding nothing except two immature Yellow Wagtails on the lagoons I moved and parked across the road from the white house on the north east corner of the complex. The "Quarry" is immediately east of this point. This is a large area of rough ground with scattered bushes and trees criss-crossed with tracks. After a few minutes walking the familiar call of Bee-eaters became evident, and eventually I saw up to 5 birds overhead and perched on the telegraph wires which cross the area.
In addition to the Bee-eaters the quarry held at least two Tawny Pipits (displaying), one (possibly two) Short-toed Larks and numerous Corn Buntings, Stonechats, Fan-tailed Warblers and Linnets.
A Hoopoe flew across the quarry, and another was on wires near the Coach Park as I left the Depuradora - as was another Bee-eater.
Cuber Reservoir:
I made the mistake of visiting Cuber in the middle of a hot afternoon on the 10th of June. This was prompted by a birder I met at the Albufera who reeled off a long list of excellent birds (several black vultures, black stork, blue rock thrush etc.etc.) that he had seen there earlier in the week. Having the time available I went from the Albufera across to Cuber. Again, Hearl's directions are fine and I was able to park next to the gate at the entrance to reservoir. I walked all the way round the reservoir - it took about two hours at a fairly slow pace. I was very disappointed by the birds, especially the lack of Black Vulture, but can only put this down to the time of day… The only species of note seen were Tawny Pipit, Raven (3) and Red Kite.
I subsequently met another birder who had been at Cuber earlier on the same day. He had seen Spectacled Warbler just below the dam (but very difficult), and claimed a great selection of raptors including Black, Egyptian and Griffon Vultures!
Mirador de Albercutz:
This site is mentioned in Graham Hearl's book for, amongst other things, a small colony of Pallid Swifts.
Situated on the northern coast of the spectacular Formentor Peninsula, the Mirador is a tourist attraction affording superb cliff-top views. I visited in the early afternoon of June 12th, and despite the crowds had excellent eye-level views of up to 12 Pallid Swifts and a small number of Crag Martins. Having seen common swift in good numbers elsewhere during the holiday, I was struck by the noticeably different call of the Pallid Swifts.
Mortitx Valley:
This valley has only a brief mention in Hearl, but was recommended to me as a good site for Black Vulture. The entrance is on the north side of the C710 between markers for k10.8 and k10.9 from Pollenca town. There is parking space for about 3 cars next to the gate, and more on the opposite side of the road about 200m east (downhill) of the entrance.
The valley is accessed via iron gates set in a wall. Initially fairly heavily wooded, the track passes through buildings, past a villa with a tennis court and a small "factory building" before opening out and passing a fairly substantial vineyard. After the vineyard are gates announcing the entrance to a nature reserve. Passing over a ladder-stile next to the gates, the track meanders down the valley for about 2k before reaching a small reservoir, beyond which access is not permitted for "conservation reasons" (a clue might have been the van marked "Black Vulture Conservation Project" which passed me along the track as I was walking back!).
As it happens, I didn't see Black Vulture on my visit! However, I did have a singing Wryneck near the factory building, and superb views of 9+ Eleanora's Falcons hawking around the reservoir. Also in evidence along the valley were Nightingales, a Firecrest, Blackcaps and several Crag Martins.
This was a lovely, fairly gentle walk and although I was unlucky it seems to provide a good chance of Black Vulture within easy reach of Port de Pollenca. (My efforts were rewarded later with good views of two Black Vultures over the ridge to the north of Pollenca Town as I drove back to Port de Pollenca).
Albufereta:
Although within easy reach of Port de Pollenca, I only visited the Albufereta "proper" once, on 13th June. I parked as suggested by Hearl just off the main coast road south of the bridge and walked through, firstly to view the main lake from the (locked) Finca gates, and then on to view the whole area from "the Mound" and further to check the fields just to the south of the Mound.
There were 2 Audouin's Gulls on the beach at the river mouth, with Little Ringed Plover, Kentish Plover, Purple Heron, Night Heron and Black-winged Stilts on the small estuary to the west of the main road.
On and around the lake were Black-winged Stilts, Little Egret, Green Sandpiper, a female Red-crested Pochard and many Coots. From the Mound more Purple Herons, Grey Herons and Cattle Egrets could be seen, and I heard but couldn't spot a calling Stone Curlew. In and around the fields were Spanish Yellow Wagtails (2+), Stonechats, Corn Buntings and many Fan-tailed Warblers. I spooked a Hoopoe near the buildings on the way back to the car.
Albufereta "Back Roads":
I drove the various back roads on several occasions, but opportunities to park are very restricted. There were several lengths of obviously new "crash barriers" blocking potential parking areas, and residents in many areas seem to have deliberately obstructed field entrances etc. I think it would be more straightforward and productive to cover the area by bicycle.
However, my various stops produced many Nightingales and Cetti's Warblers, Yellow Wagtails, Fan-tailed Warblers, Serins, Stonechats etc. An occasional Woodchat was on telegraph wires, whilst Corn Buntings and Linnets were around the drier areas and a Quail was singing from cereals at the southern end.
Species recorded:
1:Little Grebe: North-east Mallorca, 8th - 15th June 2004; Small numbers, Albufera 10th June.
2: Great Crested Grebe: Small numbers, Albufera 10th June.
3: Shag: Up to 9 regularly on breakwaters off Port de Pollenca beach.
4: Little Bittern: Up to 4, Albufera 10th June
5: Night Heron: Good numbers of adults and imms. all around the Albufera 10th June (including adults flying into large heronry just North of Reserve entrance). Also 4+ on the Albufereta (seen from "The Mound") 13th June.
6: Squacco Heron: 1 adult on the large pool from the CIM hide, Albufera 10th June.
7: Cattle Egret: Large numbers on the Albufera (including many in the large heronry just north of the Reserve entrance) 10th June. Also frequently seen on and around the Albufereta and at the Depuradora de S'Illot.
8: Little Egret: Frequent, but in smaller numbers than cattle egret. Several usually present on the Albufereta.
9: Grey Heron: Small numbers (up to 6) on the Albufera 10th June, and 3 on the Albufereta 13th June.
10: Purple Heron: Common. Many on the Albufera 10th June, and usually present on / around the Albufereta.
11: Gadwall: 1 drake on the Albufera, 10th June.
12: Mallard: Common in suitable habitat.
13: Red-crested Pochard: Very common. Many with young on the Albufera 10th June.
14: Pochard: 1 drake on the main canal, Albufera 10th June.
15: Red Kite: 1 over Cuber Reservoir 10th June.
16: Egyptian Vulture: 1 seen twice in the Bocquer Valley 9th June (7.50am and 9am - apparently having roosted on the northern slopes).
17: Black Vulture: 1 seen from the C710 at approx. k25 between Port de Pollenca and Cuber 10th June. 2 together along the ridge to the north of Pollenca Town between k1 and k2 on the C710 12th June.
18: Marsh Harrier: Up to 8, Albufera 10th June, up to 3 Depuradora de S'Illot 12th June.
19: Booted Eagle: Singles, (but at least two different birds seen) in the Bocquer Valley on 9th June, 11th June and 12th June.
20: Osprey: 1 over Pollenca Bay 8th June, another over the "Smelly River" in Port de Pollenca 9th June.
21: Kestrel: Common
22: Eleanora's Falcon: Frequently met with. There were up to 8, usually over the northern ridge, in the Bocquer Valley, up to four over the Albufera and a very good showing in the Mortitx Valley (12th June) when 9 were in the air together near the small reservoir at the northern end of the valley. These latter birds performed particularly well, giving eye-level views.
23: Red-legged Partridge: Frequently heard calling from the bottom of the Bocquer Valley, but not seen.
24: Quail: Heard singing from cereal fields along the Albufereta back-roads 11th June.
25: Moorhen: Fairly common in suitable habitat.
26: Purple Gallinule: 2 seen on the Albufera, 10th June.
27: Coot: Common on the Albufera, 10th June.
28: Crested Coot: At least 4 (2 with white neck-collars) on the Albufera, 10th June.
29: Black-winged Stilt: Common on the Albufera 10th June, and several on the Albufereta 13th June.
30: Stone Curlew: A pair present and seen several times in the Bocquer Valley (lower slopes near the small stand of pines) - very vocal in the evenings! Also heard on the Albufereta 13th June.
31: Little Ringed Plover: Several on the Albufera 10th June. Also seen on the beach just south of Port de Pollenca several times, and on fields near the Depuradora de S'Illot 13th June.
32: Kentish Plover: Several on the Albufera 10th June. Like Little Ringed Plover, seen on the beach just south of Port de Pollenca several times, and on fields near the Depuradora de S'Illot 13th June.
33: Redshank: 1 on the Albufera, 10th June.
34: Green Sandpiper: 1 on the main lake, Albufereta 13th June.
35: Black-headed Gull: 6+ loafing on edge of pool in front of CIM hide, Albufera 10th June.
36: Audouin's Gull: Surprisingly common around Pollenca Bay. Frequently at the various river / stream mouths and usually on the breakwaters off Port de Pollenca beach (up to 8 together), but also seen over the beaches north of the town several times.
37: Yellow-legged Gull: Common. Huge flocks on the water / slopes at Cuber Reservoir 10th June.
38: Common Tern: 2 together from Bishop's Hide no.1 on the Albufera, 10th June.
39: Rock Dove: Seen in most mountain areas, including a regular flock of 30+ in the Bocquer Valley.
40: Woodpigeon: Common.
41: Collared Dove: Frequent in towns / sparse woodland.
42: Turtle Dove: 1 heard calling in the Bocquer Valley 9th June.
43: Scops Owl: Up to 6 could be heard calling (at various distances) from just past the Finca at the start of the Bocquer valley on the warm calm evening of the 10th June. On both the 10th and 11th views of two birds in flight and on the 11th one perched in an olive tree next to the track. Later in the week from our apartment balcony we could hear birds calling from the direction of Postage Stamp Wood.
44: Swift: Common.
45: Pallid Swift: Up to 12 birds around the Mirador de Albercutx, 11th June. (I was struck by the call, which was noticeably different to swift apus apus ).
46: Bee-eater: At least 5 were present in the area known as "The Quarry", just east of the Depuradora de S'Illot, with another on wires near the Coach Park on the exit road 12th June.
47: Wryneck: 1 singing from a dead bough near the "factory" building in the Mortitx Valley, 12th June.
48: Short-toed Lark: 1, probably 2, in "The Quarry" area of the Depuradora de S'Illot, 12th June.
49: Crag Martin: Present in most of the suitable habitat visited. Seen in the Mortitx Valley, from the Mirador de Albercutx and in groups of up to 12 in the Bocquer Valley.
50: Swallow: The least common hirundine! Seen in the Mortitx Valley, near the Depuradora de S'Illot and 2 near the Finca at the start of the Bocquer Valley.
51: House Martin: Common.
52: Tawny Pipit: 1 singing at Cuber reservoir 10th June, at least 2 displaying in "The Quarry" area east of the Depuradora de S'Illot 12th June.
53: Yellow Wagtail: Frequent, but often juveniles. Adult male "Spanish Wagtails" seen at the Albufera and the Albufereta.
54: Nightingale: Common - present in most suitable habitat, with birds often being quite confiding.
55: Stonechat: Very common.
56: Blue Rock Thrush: Only seen (and heard) in the Bocquer Valley (11th and 14th June) and never confiding.
57: Blackbird: Common.
58: Cetti's Warbler: Present in most of the suitable habitat, and like Nightingale, more confiding than at home.
59: Fan-tailed Warbler: Very common.
60: Moustached Warbler: Excellent views of 2 confiding birds near "The Mound" on the Albufera, 10th June.
61: Reed Warbler: Common on the Albufera, 10th June.
62: Great Reed Warbler: 2 singing from reed tops near the Eddie Watkinson Hide on the Albufera, 10th June.
63: Marmora's ("Balearic") Warbler: At least 3 pairs present at the northern end of the Bocquer Valley,usually vocal and showing well.
64: Sardinian Warbler: Common.
65: Garden Warbler: 1 in scrub near the "Smelly River", 9th June.
66: Firecrest: 2+ in pines near Formentor Beach 10th June, 1 Mortitx Valley, 12th June.
67: Spotted Flycatcher: Common.
68: Great Tit: Common.
69: Woodchat Shrike: A pair present just below the Finca at the start of the Bocquer Valley. 1 seen on wires on the Albufereta "back roads" 9th June.
70: Raven: 2+ present in the Bocquer Valley.
71: House Sparrow: Very common.
72: Chaffinch: Common.
73: Serin: Common.
74: Greenfinch: Common.
75: Goldfinch: Very common.
76: Linnet: Small numbers in the Bocquer valley, the Albufereta and the Depuradora de S'Illot.
77: Crossbill: 2+ heard in pines near Formentor Beach, with a red male seen flying off, 10th June.
78: Cirl Bunting: Present along the Bocquer Valley, with a pair feeding newly fledged young just below the Finca 13th & 14th June.
79: Corn Bunting: Fairly frequent - met with in most of the suitable habitat visited.
Other Creatures:
The only mammals which I saw were small bats flying around at dusk around the Finca and the track to the Bocquer Valley.
Despite having a butterfly and a dragonfly guide I identified very few insects. However, those that I did identify included:
Butterflies: Clouded Yellow (common); Painted Lady (common); Scarce Swallowtail (a few); Wall (a few); Small blue (identity not certain, but several at least resembling this sp.)