Photos with this report (click to enlarge) | |||
 Tendaba Map |
 Tanji Map |
 Kotu Map |
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 Bijilo Map |
 Abuko Map |
 African Pygmy Kingfisher |
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This report covers a 14-day trip between Nov 15th and Nov 29 th centred on the tourist resort of Kololi and travelling to some of the main birding sites of coastal Gambia but also as far inland as Tendaba. The main focus of the trip was birds but we also noted other interesting natural history along the way.
The Gambia is probably the easiest country to visit in West Africa, with many package tour operators offering cheep breaks, we booked ours through Co-op travel and flew with Thomas Cook. There shouldn’t be many problems birders will face during their holiday but a few possible ones are Bumsters and Transport.
Bumsters
These are locals who hang about outside of hotels and along beaches trying to sell things to tourists that they usually do not want, ranging from watches to trips to their special island to watch birds or go fishing. We soon got used to these and quickly learned to be polite but firm and tell them that we did not want whatever they were selling. Some tips are to pretend that you have been to Gambia before and so are used to Bumsters and have probably seen what they want to show you anyway, also once you have got a bit of a tan they may try their luck with the newer whiter visitors.
Transport
Around the coast there are not too many problems, the roads are usually in good condition and there are plenty of taxis around that will take you where you want to go. There are two main types of taxi, tourist taxis (green) and local taxis (yellow with a green stripe). Tourist taxis are the most expensive but probably the best for long journeys as the driver will wait for you and take you back to the hotel again, once you have found a taxi driver whom you trust my recommendation would be to stick with him for the rest of your trips during the holiday. Local taxis can be at least half the price of a tourist taxi but may pick up other passengers along the way these are probably best used just for short journeys. Away from the coast the roads soon get worse. If you are travelling inland along the grandly named Trans-Gambian Highway the road was good on our visit until we got to a small town called Sotokoi, just past Pirang, then things got steadily worse with only the occasional stretch of tarmac road from here to Tendaba. It was along this stretch of road that our taxi driver, a very friendly guy called Omar Sheriff Kanteh, lost his car exhaust but we carried on to Tendaba anyway and the car got us back safely before Omar got his new exhaust. Whatever taxis you choose to use don’t forget to haggle. Tourist taxi fares to various places during our trip were: Abuko D600, Tanji D200 and Tendaba D4500.
Bird ID and bird guides
The trickiest birds to ID for someone not used to African birding would normally be non-breeding Weavers and female Sunbirds but as we did not see many of either of these the only birds that proved frustrating for me were Starlings and Doves and that was mainly due to my laziness because I tended to ignore most of them in favour of other species. Bird Guides some good some bad were readily available near to the coast and were usually found either outside the Senagambia hotel main entrance, the Palma Riva hotel entrance or at Kotu Bridge. We only used a bird guide once named, Ebrima James Jarju, to find us Long-tailed Nightjar at Kotu point.
Useful contacts
Tendaba Camp – email: tendaba@qantumnet.gm.
Ebrima James Jarjaru, bird guide – email: jamesjarju@yahoo.com.
Omar Sheriff Kanteh, driver – c/o Ismalia Tamba General Post Office Airport Branch Banjul The Gambia, West Africa. Tel. 00220 4463042 Email: omar sheriff kanteh email @ hotmail.com
A short itinerary follows. • 15/11/04 – Flight from Manchester to Banjul, transferred to hotel at Kololi. • 16/11/04 – Kololi and Bijilo. • 17/11/04 – Kotu Stream and Senagambia Hotel. • 18/11/04 – Tanji Forest Park and Kololi. • 19/11/04 – Bijilo Forest Park and Kololi. • 20/11/04 – Kotu Stream, Fajara and Senagambia Hotel. • 21/11/04 – Abuko Nature Reserve. • 22/11/04 – Kotu Stream. • 23/11/04 – Tendaba. • 24/11/04 – Tendaba and the Kiang West National Park. • 25/11/04 – Tendaba and Kiang Central. • 26/11/04 – Kololi and Kotu Point. • 27/11/04 – Abuko Nature Reserve. • 28/11/04 – Bijilo Forest Park. • 29/11/04 – Kololi.
Bijilo Forest Park – entrance fee D30 This small fragment of Rhun Palm dominated Coastal forest is often referred to as the ‘Monkey Park’ by all the locals around Kololi. Monkeys and tourists coming to look at the monkeys are both common. Good birds are still found here though so this site is definitely worth a look. Species we saw here include Oriole Warbler (Moho), Levaillant’s Cuckoo, Black Flycatcher, Black-necked Weaver, both Robin Chats and Fanti Saw-wing. Kotu Stream This area including the nearby Golf Course and Cycle track is one of the standard places on most birders itineraries. The whole area is quite busy especially with local bird guides who base themselves here and will offer their services to any birder they meet. Species seen here include Blue-bellied Roller, Double-spurred Francolin, Long-tailed Nightjar, Senegal Thick-knee and Black-headed Plover.
Tanji Forest Park – Entrance fee D30 Quite a large amount of Coastal forest lies within this parks protection but most of it is dense Acacia forest with very few large trees and so is therefore quite difficult to work, having said that there is a good clearing on the coastal side of the park. The coast itself is of some interest with a large lagoon often holding many gulls, terns and waders. Species seen here include, Grey Kestrel, Palm-nut Vulture, Rufous-crowned Roller, Swallow-tailed Bee-eater, Fine-spotted Woodpecker and Lavender Waxbill. Although a park entrance fee is payable to enter this reserve, when we got their there was no-one to pay so we didn’t.
Abuko Nature Reserve This is probably the prime site in Gambia for birding, it is certainly the largest and best patch of forest we came across. A whole day can easily be spent here looking for birds especially if you hire the Photography hide for D50 a day. Species seen here include, Martial eagle, Black Crake, Violet Turaco, Green Turaco, African Pygmy Kingfisher, Lesser Honeyguide, Buff-spotted Woodpecker, Little Greenbul, both Paradise Flycatchers, both Robin-chats, Green Crombec, Oriole Warbler (Moho), Pied-winged Swallow, Fanti Saw-wing, White-crested Helmet-shrike, African Golden Oriole, Orange-cheeked Waxbill and Lavender Waxbill. As well as these great birds there are some other good animals to be seen here, in our two visits we recorded Callithrix Monkey (cercopithecus sabaeus), Western Red Colobus (piliocolobus badius temminki), Striped Ground Squirrel (euxerus erythropus), Gambian Sun Squirrel (heliosciurus gambianus), Bushbuck (tragelaphus scriptus), Maxwell’s Duiker (cephalophus maxwelli), Nile Crocodile, Nile Monitor, Agama Lizards, Chameleon, a small snake, possibly Olive-sand Snake, and some bees/wasps which decided to sting us (Anne twice, me only once) while we were looking for the extension track needless to say we gave up and went back to the main reserve.
Tendaba At the beginning of our second week we took a three-day trip to the small village of Tendaba, which is approximately 150 km or 4 hours driving time from the coastal resorts. Whilst here we stayed at the excellent Tendaba Camp complete with small, clean swimming pool and good restaurant (D260 per person for a VIP room) and from here we went on two canoe trips on the river Gambia, the first into Kiang West National Park (entrance D30) and the second up a small creek to the East of Tendaba. Both trips were organised privately with a local who introduced himself at the village jetty and cost D600 (£12), alternatively you could organise a Pirogue trip through the people on reception at the Tendaba Camp, these will be more expensive but you will have the advantage of having a motor on your boat. Species seen here include, Pink-backed Pelican, Goliath Heron, Woolly-necked Stork, Spur-winged Goose, African Hobby, Martial Eagle, Long-crested Eagle, African Fish Eagle, Black Crowned Crane, Four-banded Sandgrouse, Bruce’s Green Pigeon, Senegal Parrot, Blue-breasted Kingfisher, Cardinal Woodpecker, Mottled Spinetail, Green-backed Eremomela, Rufous Cisticola, Red-shouldered Cuckoo-shrike, White-crested Helmet Shrike, Northern Puffback, African Golden Oriole, Mouse-brown Sunbird and Black-rumped Waxbill.
Long-tailed Cormorant Seen four times, always near water.
African Darter Only seen on two days, both times at Tendaba.
Pink-backed Pelican Very common around Tendaba.
Grey Heron Common around water.
Black-headed Heron Common around water.
Goliath Heron Only seen once from the creek canoe trip, Tendaba.
Great-white Egret Occasionally seen, mainly Tendaba.
Intermediate Egret Very common at Tendaba, occasional elsewhere.
Little Egret Only seen on Kotu stream.
Western Reef Heron Regular at Kotu stream and Tendaba.
Cattle Egret Very common.
Squacco Heron Regular around water.
Striated Heron Regular around water.
Black-crowned Night Heron Only seen at dusk in Kololi and at Abuko
Hamerkop Common, usually near water.
Woolly-necked Stork Seen twice at Tendaba.
Greater Flamingo A small flock of nine young birds seen migrating North following the shoreline near to Kololi on the last day.
Spur-winged Goose Seen twice at Tendaba.
White-backed Vulture Only seen inland.
Hooded Vulture Very common.
Palm-nut Vulture Four sightings, singles at Tanji and Abuko and two at Tendaba Airfield.
Peregrine Falcon Seen twice at Tendaba.
African Hobby Seen twice at Tendaba, the first over the Kiang West National Park and the second over Tendaba Airfield.
Red-necked Falcon Only seen once, a bird flew over the cycle track at Kotu.
Grey Kestrel The commonest Falcon, seen at Tanji, Kotu and Kololi.
Black Kite Very common.
Wahlberg’s Eagle Only seen once on the journey back from Tendaba to the coast.
Booted Eagle Two birds over Kiang West National Park.
Martial Eagle A juvenile circling with Vultures over Abuko and an adult was seen at Tendaba.
Long-crested Eagle Two birds were at Tendaba Airfield.
Lizard Buzzard Reasonably common, seen at Kotu, Tanji, Tendaba and Abuko.
African Fish Eagle Only seen at Tendaba where it is quite common.
Shikra Reasonably common, at Tendaba, Abuko, Bijilo and Kololi.
Dark Chanting Goshawk Only seen once, at Abuko.
Montagu’s Harrier Two birds were seen at Tanji.
Marsh Harrier A male and a female were at Tendaba.
African Harrier-hawk Reasonably common, at Bijilo, Abuko, Tendaba and Kotu.
Osprey Reasonably common, at Kololi, Tanji, Tendaba and Abuko.
Double-spurred Francolin Only seen in the Kotu area.
Black Crake Seen on both visits to Abuko from the large raised hide.
Black Crowned Crane Only seen once, two birds were perched on top of a large tree near to Tendaba Airfield.
Senegal Thick-knee Seen on two occasions, firstly at Kotu Stream and then the following day on the journey to Tendaba at the bridge over Bintang Bolong near to Kalagi.
African Jacana Seen on both visits to Abuko.
Wattled Plover Very common especially near the coast.
Spur-winged Plover Nearly as common as the above species and often sharing the same habitat.
Black-headed Plover Only seen once when five were seen on Kotu Stream from the edge of the Golf Course.
Black-winged Stilt Only one seen all trip in a rice paddy near to Tendaba.
Sanderling Twenty were on the shore at Tanji and the odd one was along the beach at Kololi.
Ruff One bird was at a rice paddy near Tendaba.
Turnstone A group of ten birds were seen on a small rocky outcrop near to Brufut Beach.
Common Sandpiper Regular at Kotu and Tendaba.
Wood Sandpiper One bird was at Kotu.
Redshank One bird was on a small rocky outcrop near to Brufut Beach.
Marsh Sandpiper Occasionally at Kotu.
Greenshank Reasonably common at Kotu and Tendaba.
Black-tailed Godwit Two birds at Kotu.
Bar-tailed Godwit A small flock of seven birds were on the shore at Tanji.
Whimbrel Very common at the coast and at Tendaba.
Pomarine Skua One pale-phase bird was flying South along the beach at Kololi and another bird was offshore from Kotu.
Lesser Black-backed Gull A few were on the shore at Tanji.
Slender-billed Gull Thirteen were flying North past Kololi and another one was seen the following day.
Grey-headed Gull Very common at the coast.
Black-headed Gull Small numbers were seen at Kotu and at Tanji.
Sabine’s Gull A juvenile flew North past Kololi 16/11 close inshore. This is possibly the first record of this species for the Gambia although Sabine’s Gull is apparently regularly recorded from Northern Senegal.
Gull-billed Tern Quite common at Tendaba along the river, one bird was at Kololi.
Caspian Tern Regular along the coast between Tanji and Kotu also at Tendaba.
Common Tern Regularly offshore at Kololi.
Sandwich Tern Very common coastal tern.
Royal Tern Regular along the coast between Tanji and Kotu.
Four-banded Sandgrouse Two birds at dusk on the edge of Tendaba Airfield 24/11.
Speckled Pigeon Very common throughout.
Red-eyed Dove Very common throughout.
African Mourning Dove Recorded at Abuko and Bijilo, may have been overlooked elsewhere.
Vinaceous Dove Recorded at Kotu and Tendaba, may have been overlooked elsewhere.
Laughing Dove Very common throughout.
Namaqua Dove Commonly recorded on most days.
Blue-spotted Wood Dove Small numbers at Tanji, Bijilo and Abuko.
Black-billed Wood Dove Small numbers at Bijilo and Abuko plus one bird at Tendaba.
Bruce’s Green Pigeon Only recorded in the Tendaba area where we had 2 birds.
Levaillant’s Cuckoo The only cuckoo of the trip and it was at Bijilo.
Senegal Coucal Common in most areas.
Green Turaco One bird was on the short cut track at Abuko.
Violet Turaco Seen on both trips to Abuko.
Western Grey Plantain-eater Common in most areas.
Senegal Parrot Regular at the coast and at Tendaba.
Rose-ringed Parakeet Regular at the coast and at Tendaba.
Abyssinian Roller Very common at Tendaba, elsewhere only one was at Kotu cycle track.
Rufous–crowned Roller Singles were at Kotu and Tanji and two were at Tendaba.
Blue-bellied Roller Often recorded at Kotu and once at Bijilo.
Broad-billed Roller Usually around Kololi towards dusk and also recorded at Tendaba and Abuko.
Pied Kingfisher Common at Kotu stream and Tendaba.
Giant Kingfisher One was seen flying over Kotu bridge.
African Pygmy Kingfisher One bird showed very well from the photography hide at Abuko.
Woodland Kingfisher Seen at Kotu, Bijilo and Tendaba.
Blue-breasted Kingfisher Reasonably regular at Tendaba also recorded at Abuko and Bijilo.
European Bee-eater At least four birds were hawking very high at Tendaba.
Blue-cheeked Bee-eater Seen both times at Abuko, also once at Kotu over the bridge.
Little Bee-eater Very common everywhere except Tendaba where it was unrecorded.
Swallow-tailed Bee-eater Singles seen at Tanji and Tendaba.
African Grey Hornbill Commonly seen in most areas.
Red-billed Hornbill Slightly commoner than the previous species.
Green Wood-hoopoe Recorded in most wooded areas e.g. Bijilo and Abuko.
Long-tailed Nightjar Three birds including at least one male were seen at dusk at Kotu Point.
Bearded Barbet Recorded at Kotu, both times at Abuko and at Kololi.
Yellow-fronted Tinkerbird Only seen once near to Kotu bridge, where it was apparently nesting.
Lesser Honeyguide One in Abuko.
Buff-spotted Woodpecker Seen on both visits to Abuko, with two on the second visit.
Fine-spotted Woodpecker A female at Tanji was the only one of the trip.
Cardinal Woodpecker Two were seen at the Kiang West National Park, near to Tendaba.
Grey Woodpecker The commonest Woodpecker with three seen at Abuko and three at Tendaba.
Pallid Swift Only seen at Kololi, and Tendaba where a couple were seen flying around the village jetty most days.
Little Swift Occasionally seen at the coast, especially at Kololi and Kotu. Much commoner at Tendaba where a small colony was nesting under the village jetty.
African Palm Swift Commonly recorded in most areas.
Mottled Spinetail Only seen on one occasion when several were flying overhead at the Kiang West National Park.
White Wagtail Commonly seen at Tendaba but only one at the coast at Kololi.
Yellow Wagtail Commonly seen at Tendaba and once at the coast with two birds at Brufut Beach.
Brown Babbler Common in wooded areas especially Bijilo and Kotu.
Blackcap Babbler Regular at Bijilo, plus two at Abuko, and one at the Senagambia Hotel.
Common Bulbul Abundant.
Little Greenbul Two were seen on both visits to Abuko.
Northern Black Flycatcher Only one was seen all trip, near to the entrance gate at Bijilo.
Common Wattle-eye Reasonably common at Tanji, Bijilo and Abuko.
African Paradise Flycatcher One was at Tendaba, and two were at Abuko.
Red-bellied Paradise Flycatcher Only two were at Abuko, plus a Hybrid bird.
African Thrush Reasonably common at Tanji, Bijilo and Abuko.
Northern Wheatear One was on the beach at Kololi.
White-crowned Robin-chat At least two birds were resident in the grounds of the Senagambia Hotel, also recorded at Bijilo and Abuko.
Snowy-crowned Robin-chat Only recorded at Abuko and Bijilo.
Subalpine Warbler Seen along the Kotu cycle track on two separate dates.
Chiffchaff Only recorded from the Tendaba area where it was quite common.
Green Crombec A single bird was seen at Abuko.
Northern Crombec Two birds were at Kotu Golf Course and singles were seen twice atTendaba.
Green-backed Eremomela Two were at Tendaba, and another two were at Abuko.
Grey-backed Camaroptera Common in suitable forest thickets, especially Abuko and Bijilo.
Oriole Warbler One of the best birds of the trip with singles recorded on both visits to Bijilo and another at Abuko.
Zitting Cisticola Locally common with for example eight recorded at Tendaba Airfield.
Rufous Cisticola Two birds were in reeds and grasses at the edge of the River Gambia in the Kiang West National Park.
Tawny-flanked Prinia A scattering of records for Kololi, Tendaba, Kotu and Bijilo.
Red-chested Swallow Common at Tendaba, also recorded on two visits to Kotu.
Pied-winged Swallow Only seen at Abuko where small numbers were usually found near to water.
Wire-tailed Swallow Only seen at Kololi where one or two birds often came to drink from the hotel pool in the evenings.
Red-rumped Swallow Only recorded at Tendaba where several were amongst a large flock of Swallows feeding over the mangroves.
Mosque Swallow Regularly seen flying over the Senagambia hotel gardens.
House Martin A few birds were amongst the commoner Swallows in the large flock at Tendaba.
Fanti Saw-wing Common at Abuko where small parties were often feeding low over the trees. A small group of Three birds were also at Bijilo.
Red-shouldered Cuckoo-shrike A male was seen in the Kiang West National Park.
Fork-tailed Drongo Reasonably common at Abuko and Tendaba.
White-crested Helmet-shrike Two large flocks were in the Tendaba area, one at Kiang West National Park and another at the Airfield. A third flock was at Abuko.
Yellow-billed Shrike Regularly seen near the coast, for example at Tanji and Kololi.
Yellow-crowned Gonolek Fairly common in suitable habitat, recorded at Tanji, Bijilo, Kotu, Tendaba and in the Senagambia hotel garden.
Northern Puffback Only one was seen all trip and it was at Tendaba.
African Golden Oriole One was seen at the Abuko extension, with another was at Tendaba.
Pied Crow Abundant
Piapiac Common at the coast.
Greater Blue-eared Glossy Starling Regular at the coast and at Tendaba.
Purple Glossy Starling Occasional at the coast.
Long-tailed Glossy Starling Very common everywhere.
Beautiful Sunbird Very common at the coast but scarcer inland.
Splendid Sunbird Two birds were seen, one at Abuko, and one in Kololi.
Mouse-brown Sunbird A single bird was seen on the creek trip from Tendaba.
White-billed Buffalo-weaver Very common at the Kotu cycle track where they were breeding.
Grey-headed Sparrow Regular at Kotu and Tendaba.
House Sparrow Only around human habitation, for example at Banjul Airport.
Village Weaver Very common everywhere.
Black-necked Weaver Only in good forest, both trips to Abuko and once at Bijilo.
Red-billed Quelea The most abundant bird in the world and I only see one at Kotu.
Black-winged Red Bishop One roadside bird was on the trip to Tendaba.
Bronze Mannikin Very common at the coast and at Abuko.
African Silverbill One bird was in waste ground behind my hotel in Kololi.
Red-billed Firefinch Very common everywhere.
Lavender Waxbill Small flocks were encountered at Kololi, Tanji and Abuko.
Black-rumped Waxbill Common at Tendaba, absent elsewhere.
Orange-cheeked Waxbill Four were seen from the Photography hide in Abuko.
Red-cheeked Cordon-bleu Common at most sites.
Mammals and other critters
Callithrix Monkey (cercopithecus sabaeus) Very common and often tame at Tanji, Bijilo, Abuko and Tendaba.
Western Red Colobus (piliocolobus badius temminki) Common at Abuko, also recorded at Kiang West National Park near Tendaba.
Bushbuck (tragelaphus scriptus) Seen on both visits to Abuko, each time from the main hides.
Maxwell’s Duiker (cephalophus maxwelli) Three were seen on our second visit to Abuko.
Striped Ground Squirrel (euxerus erythropus)Two were seen on the first visit to Abuko and another was at Kiang West National Park.
Gambian Sun Squirrel (heliosciurus gambianus)One was seen on the first visit to Abuko and Three on the second.
Fruit Bat (sp) Regularly seen in large numbers around the Kololi / Kotu area at dusk.
Small insectivorous Bat One over the hotel pool at dusk.
Nile Crocodile Three were seen at Abuko, from the raised hide at dusk.
Nile Monitor Common on both visits to Abuko.
Chameleon Only one seen and this was at Abuko.
Agama Lizards Common everywhere.
Small snake poss. Olive-sand Snake One at the Abuko extension, 21/11.
Gecko Occasionally seen in buildings at night.
Praying Mantis One on a night walk at Tendaba.
Mudskipper Very common at Tendaba.
Fiddler Crab Very common at Tendaba.