Photos with this report (click to enlarge) | |||
 Masked Booby |
 White-necked Jacobin female |
||
Peter Nash
Introduction
We booked a “Twin Island Special Tour” with Holiday in Tobago. This gave us a week on Tobago in the Blue Waters Inn, Speyside, and a week in the famous Asa Wright Nature Centre on Trinidad.
The price included international and local flights and all transfers.
Also included is a flexible program of birding excursions on Tobago with Newton George, two full days and two half days. Newton is very personable and is an acknowledged expert on the birds of Trinidad and Tobago and we were fortunate to have him to ourselves for some of the trips.
The service from Glyn Kirpalani of Holiday in Tobago was excellent, Glyn went out of his way to make sure we got the best out of our trip and offered many useful tips and suggestions.
References
“A Birdwatchers Guide to Trinidad and Tobago” by William L Murphy proved accurate and is a must have for any serious birder visiting the islands. The book contains site details and maps, bird lists and contact details for hotels, lodges and guides. I will assume that anyone using my report as part of their trip planning will have a copy.
“A Guide to the Birds of Trinidad and Tobago” second edition, by Richard ffrench is not as good as it could be. The illustrations are poor and some birds are not illustrated at all. Some of the birds that are shown are the nominate race and not the ones found on T&T! The text somewhat redeems the situation with descriptions of local forms.
Money
The exchange rate for the TT dollar was around 12 to the UK£. Note that banks are open Monday to Thursday 0900 to 1500, and 0900 to 1300 Friday.
Transport
Holiday in Tobago offer economy seats on Excel Airways from London Gatwick to Crown Point airport on Tobago, and Tobago Express for inter island flights. Excel proved to be punctual and efficient and pretty good as economy flights go.
We used Tobago Express for our inter island flights.
Airport transfers were included, drivers from Blue Waters Inn and Asa Wright met us at the airports on our arrival and ferried us back for our departure flights.
Accommodation
Tobago
The Blue Waters Inn is in a perfect location on the north east coast near Speyside and is well situated for visits to the islands of Little Tobago and St Giles.
The hotel offers air conditioned apartments and bungalows.
The hotel grounds are a haven for birds, Rufous-vented Chachalacas are noisy neighbours and Turnstones will join you at the bar. During our stay up to six Hawksbill Turtles were feeding in Batteaux Bay only 20 or 30 m from the beach. A dirt road on the left just before the first entrance gate follows the contour high above the coast. The birds along here are very confiding and there are great views over to Little Tobago.
Trinidad
“The Asa Wright Experience” is an accurate description. The Lodge is run in a very genteel way reminiscent of an earlier time. Most rooms are in bungalow style buildings in the grounds of the Lodge. The balcony has commanding views over the Arima valley.
Bird feeders positioned just a few feet away from the balcony provide great photographic opportunities. Fruit, bread and cake are put out and attract Tanagers, Thrushes, Honeycreepers etc. Hummingbirds come to the feeders and also to flowering plants and bushes in the gardens.
The resident guides give very informative walks around AWNC (Asa Wright Nature Centre) and are always on hand on the balcony. Thanks to Denise, Cherry-Anne, Mukesh, Jason, Odin and Harold.
Guides
Tobago, Newton George.
We emailed Newton and gave him an idea of the birds we wanted to see. Newton organised trips to the islands of Little Tobago and St Giles to fit in with our itinerary.
Trinidad, Ramdass
The AWNC offers a full range of trips to birding areas throughout the island. Experienced guides are provided. We were lucky to have Ramdass for the whole week.
Trips may be booked a day in advance and packed meals are provided.
Email AWNC for details and prices.
Contacts
Holiday in Tobago, www.holidayintobago.com
Newton George, http://tka.co.uk/birds/trinidadandtobago/guides/newtongeorge.htm
Blue Waters Inn, www.bluewatersinn.com
Asa Wright Nature Centre, http://www.asawright.org/
Ramdass can be contacted via AWNC
Peter Nash, www.peterdnash.pwp.blueyonder.co.uk
Daily account
21/04 Depart LGW 0930. Arrived at Crown Point airport Tobago at 1430 and met the driver provided by the Blue Waters Inn. Arrived at BWI 1700. Met Newton at the bar at 1900 to discuss birding possibilities.
22/04 An early start for a full day trip with Newton for his “Island Tour” Visited sites including Bloody Bay Recreational Area, Tobago Main Ridge Reserve, Arnos Vale, Buccoo Bay and Scarborough.
23/04 An early 0630 start for a visit to the Main Ridge Reserve and Gilpin Trace.
24/04 Afternoon visit to the seabird colony on Little Tobago. The island can also be visited using Franks Glass bottomed Boat Tours direct from the jetty at BWI, but note that less time is spent on the island as snorkelling and coral viewing are the main priority.
25/04 An 0700 start for Newtons “Wetlands Tour” Visited Bon Accord Water treatment Plant, Hilton Plantation, Pigeon Point and Grafton Bird Sanctuary.
26/04 Afternoon trip to St Giles Island, the sea conditions were quite choppy making photography difficult. There is no possibility of landing on St Giles.
27/04 Snorkeled with Hawksbill Turtles all morning. Made a second visit to Little Tobago for more bird viewing and snorkeling.
28/04 Transfer to Trinidad. 1200 flight to Piarco airport. Met by AWNC driver for the 40minute drive. Arranged a trip with Ramdass over the Northern Range to the coast at Blanchisseuse
29/04 A predawn start to the spectacular balcony at AWNC. After breakfast Blanchisseuse trip.
30/04 Early balcony viewing then after breakfast an introductory tour of the grounds with guide Cherry Anne.
01/05 Asa Wright trails all day. Arranged tours for the rest of our stay.
02/05 After an early visit to the Oilbirds at AWNC we met Ramdass for a trip to Aripo Livestock Station, Nariva Swamp and Waller Field.
03/05 Predawn 0300 start for a trip to Grande Riviere to see the Trinidad Piping Guans. Returned to AWNC in time for a 1630 start to Matura Beach for an amazing evening seeing Leatherback Turtle egg laying. The first turtles began clambering up the beach at 2030. Arrived back at AWNC 2230.
04/05 All day at AWNC.
05/05 Spent the early morning on the balcony and trails, then transferred to Piarco for 1200 flight to Tobago. Had time for a little birding around the airport before our homeward flight 1830.
06/05 Arrived LGW 0845.
Least Grebe (Tachybaptus dominicus)
Trinidad and Tobago 14
Audubon's Shearwater (Puffinus (assimilis) lherminieri)
Little Tobago 2
Red-billed Tropicbird (Phaethon aethereus)
Little Tobago and St Giles 530
White-tailed Tropicbird (Phaethon lepturus)
Little Tobago 4
Brown Pelican (Pelecanus occidentalis)
Trinidad and Tobago 112
Masked Booby (Sula dactylatra)
St Giles 24
Red-footed Booby (Sula sula)
Little Tobago and St Giles 140
Brown Booby (Sula leucogaster)
Little Tobago and St Giles 250
Anhinga (Anhinga anhinga)
Trinidad and Tobago 41
Magnificent Frigatebird (Fregata magnificens)
Trinidad and Tobago 1206
Pinnated Bittern (Botaurus pinnatus)
Trinidad 4 Nariva Swamp
Great Blue Heron (Ardea herodias)
Trinidad and Tobago 2
Great Egret (Ardea alba)
Trinidad and Tobago 3
Tricoloured Heron (Egretta tricolor)
Trinidad and Tobago 5
Little Blue Heron (Egretta caerulea)
Trinidad and Tobago 4
Snowy Egret (Egretta thula)
Tobago 1
Cattle Egret (Bubulcus ibis)
Trinidad and Tobago 230
Green Heron (Butorides (striatus) virescens)
Tobago 12
Striated Heron (Butorides striatus)
Trinidad 20
Black-crowned Night-heron (Nycticorax nycticorax)
Tobago 1
Yellow-crowned Night-heron (Nyctanassa violacea)
Trinidad and Tobago 22
Black-bellied Whistling-duck (Dendrocygna autumnalis)
Tobago 18
Blue-winged Teal (Anas discors)
Tobago 1
Black Vulture (Coragyps atratus)
Trinidad and Tobago common
Turkey Vulture (Cathartes aura)
Trinidad and Tobago common
Osprey (Pandion haliaetus)
Tobago 2
Pearl Kite (Gampsonyx swainsonii)
Trinidad 4 Nariva Swamp
Double-toothed Kite (Harpagus bidentatus)
Trinidad 1 AWNC
Plumbeous Kite (Ictinia plumbea)
Trinidad 12
White Hawk (Leucopternis albicollis)
Trinidad 1 AWNC
Savanna Hawk (Heterospizias meridontalis)
Trinidad 4
Common Black-hawk (Buteogallus anthracinus)
Trinidad 2 at Rampanalgas
Great Black-hawk (Buteogallus urubitinga)
Trinidad and Tobago 6
Broad-winged Hawk (Buteo platypterus)
Trinidad and Tobago 8
Zone-tailed Hawk (Buteo albonotatus)
Trinidad 1
Yellow-headed Caracara (Milvago chimachima)
Trinidad and Tobago 9
Rufous-vented Chachalaca (Ortalis ruficauda)
Tobago 160
Trinidad Piping-guan (Pipile pipile)
Trinidad 2 Grande Riviere
Purple Gallinule (Porphyrula martinica)
Trinidad 12
Common Moorhen (Gallinula chloropus)
Trinidad and Tobago 24
Wattled Jacana (Jacana (spinosa) jacana)
Trinidad and Tobago 30
Southern Lapwing (Vanellus chilensis)
Trinidad and Tobago 44
Semipalmated Plover (Charadrius semipalmatus)
Tobago 3
Common (Wilson's) Snipe (Gallinago gallinago delicata)
Trinidad 1 Nariva Swamp
Whimbrel (Numenius phaeopus)
Tobago 1
Greater Yellowlegs (Tringa melanoleuca)
Tobago 1
Solitary Sandpiper (Tringa solitaria)
Trinidad and Tobago 6
Spotted Sandpiper (Actitis (hypoleucos) macularia)
Tobago 3
Ruddy Turnstone (Arenaria interpres)
Tobago 26
Laughing Gull (Larus atricilla)
Tobago 550
Royal Tern (Sterna maxima)
Tobago 4
Roseate Tern (Sterna dougallii)
Tobago 8
Bridled Tern (Sterna anaethetus)
Little Tobago 40
Sooty Tern (Sterna fuscata)
Little Tobago 60
Brown Noddy (Anous stolidus)
Little Tobago 80
Black Skimmer (Rynchops niger)
Tobago 1 Bon Accord
Scaled Pigeon (Columba speciosa)
Trinidad 6 AWNC
Pale-vented Pigeon (Columba cayennensis)
Trinidad and Tobago 36
Eared Dove (Zenaida auriculata)
Tobago 6
Common Ground-dove (Columbina passerina)
Trinidad 6 Waller Field
Ruddy Ground-dove (Columbina talpacoti)
Trinidad and Tobago 30
White-tipped Dove (Leptotila verreauxi)
Trinidad and Tobago 68
Grey-fronted Dove (Leptotila rufaxilla)
Trinidad 2 AWNC
Red-bellied Macaw (Orthopsittica manilata)
Trinidad 18 Waller Field
Green-rumped Parrotlet (Forpus passerinus)
Trinidad and Tobago 16
Lilac-tailed Parrotlet (Touit batavica)
Trinidad 22 AWNC
Blue-headed Parrot (Pionus menstruus)
Trinidad 2 AWNC
Orange-winged Parrot (Amazona amazonica)
Trinidad and Tobago 88
Mangrove Cuckoo (Coccyzus minor)
Tobago 1 Pigeon Point
Squirrel Cuckoo (Piaya cayana)
Trinidad 2 AWNC
Smooth-billed Ani (Crotophaga ani)
Trinidad and Tobago 100
Striped Cuckoo (Tapera naevia)
Trinidad 2
Barn Owl (Tyto alba)
Trinidad 1 Matura Beach
Ferruginous Pygmy-owl (Glaucidium brasilianum)
Trinidad 4 AWNC
Oilbird (Steatornis caripensis)
Trinidad 120 Dunston Cave AWNC
White-tailed Nightjar (Caprimulgus cayennensis)
Tobago 1
Band-rumped Swift (Chaetura spinicaudus)
Trinidad 30
Grey-rumped Swift (Chaetura cinereiventris)
Tobago 140
Short-tailed Swift (Chaetura brachyura)
Tobago 100
Fork-tailed Palm-swift (Tachornis squamata)
Trinidad 3 Waller Field
Lesser Swallow-tailed Swift (Panyptila cayennensis)
Trinidad 1
Rufous-breasted Hermit (Glaucis hirsuta)
Trinidad and Tobago 14
Green Hermit (Phaethornis guy)
Trinidad 2
Little Hermit (Phaethornis longuemareus)
Trinidad 4
White-tailed Sabrewing (Campylopterus ensipennis)
Tobago 14 Gilpin Trace
White-necked Jacobin (Florisuga mellivora)
Tobago 60
Black-throated Mango, Anthracothorax nigricollis)
Tobago 80
Ruby-topaz Hummingbird (Chrysolampis mosquitus)
Tobago 54
Tufted Coquette (Lophornis ornatus)
Trinidad 18 AWNC
Blue-chinned Sapphire (Chlorostilbon notatus)
Trinidad 20
White-tailed Goldenthroat (Polytmus guainumbi)
Trinidad 1 Nariva Swamp
White-chested Emerald (Agyrtria brevirostris)
Trinidad 12
Copper-rumped Hummingbird (Saucerottia tobaci)
Tobago 38
Long-billed Starthroat (Heliomaster longirostris)
Trinidad 2 AWNC
White-tailed Trogon (Trogon viridis)
Trinidad 8
Violaceous Trogon (Trogon violaceus)
Trinidad 8
Collared Trogon (Trogon collaris)
Trinidad and Tobago 10
Blue-diademed Motmot (Momotus momota)
Trinidad and Tobago 28
Rufous-tailed Jacamar (Galbula ruficauda)
Tobago 14
Channel-billed Toucan (Ramphastos vitellinus)
Trinidad 6 AWNC
Red-crowned Woodpecker (Melanerpes rubricapillus)
Tobago 26
Red-rumped Woodpecker (Veniliornis kirkii)
Tobago 8
Golden-olive Woodpecker (Piculus rubiginosus)
Tobago 4
Chestnut Woodpecker (Celeus elegans)
Trinidad 1
Lineated Woodpecker (Dryocopus lineatus)
Trinidad 2
Crimson-crested Woodpecker (Campephilus melanoleucos)
Trinidad 1 Grand Riviere
Pale-breasted Spinetail (Synallaxis albes
cens)
Trinidad 2 Nariva Swamp
Stripe-breasted Spinetail (Synallaxis cinnamomea)
Tobago 4
Yellow-chinned Spinetail (Certhiaxis cinnamomea)
Trinidad 8
Streaked Xenops (Xenops rutilans)
Trinidad 1
Plain-brown Woodcreeper (Dendrocincla fuliginosa)
Trinidad 3
Olivaceous Woodcreeper (Sittasomus griseicapillus)
Tobago 1
Cocoa Woodcreeper (Xiphorhynchus (guttatus) susurrans)
Tobago 17
Great Antshrike (Taraba major)
Trinidad 6
Black-crested Antshrike (Sakesphorus canadensis)
Trinidad 2
Barred Antshrike (Thamnophilus doliatus)
Tobago 24
Plain Antvireo (Dysithamnus mentalis)
Tobago 3
White-flanked Antwren (Myrmotherula axillaris)
Trinidad 2
White-fringed Antwren (Formicivora grisea)
Tobago 12
Silvered Antbird (Sclateria naevia)
Trinidad 2 Grande Riviere
White-bellied Antbird (Myrmeciza longipes)
Trinidad 2
Bearded Bellbird (Procnias averano)
Trinidad 8 AWNC
White-bearded Manakin (Manacus manacus)
Trinidad 40 AWNC
Blue-backed Manakin (Chiroxiphia pareola)
Tobago 5 Gilpin Trace
Golden-headed Manakin (Pipra erythrocephala)
Trinidad 20 AWNC
Southern Beardless Tyrannulet (Camptostoma obsoletum)
Trinidad 8
Yellow-bellied Elaenia (Elaenia flavogaster)
Tobago 14
Ochre-bellied Flycatcher (Mionectes oleagineus)
Trinidad 6
Slaty-capped Flycatcher (Leptopogon superciliaris)
Trinidad 4
Yellow-breasted Flycatcher (Tolmomyias flaviventris)
Tobago 2
White-throated Spadebill (Platyrinchus mystaceus)
Tobago 1 Gilpin Trace
Bran-coloured Flycatcher (Myiophobus fasciatus)
Trinidad 2
Fuscous Flycatcher (Cnemotriccus fuscatus)
Tobago 24
Euler's Flycatcher (Lathrotriccus euleri)
Trinidad 12
Olive-sided Flycatcher (Contopus borealis)
Trinidad 2
Tropical Pewee (Contopus cinereus)
Trinidad 12
Pied Water-tyrant (Fluvicola pica)
Trinidad 12 Nariva Swamp
White-headed Marsh-tyrant (Arundinicola leucocephala)
Trinidad 6 Nariva Swamp
Venezuelan Flycatcher (Myiarchus venezuelensis)
Tobago 2 Gilpin Trace
Brown-crested Flycatcher (Myiarchus tyrannulus)
Tobago 14
Great Kiskadee (Pitangus sulphuratus)
Trinidad 24
Boat-billed Flycatcher (Megarynchus pitangua)
Trinidad 1 AWNC
Streaked Flycatcher (Myiodynastes maculatus)
Tobago 10
Sulphury Flycatcher (Tyrannopsis sulphurea)
Trinidad 2 Waller Field
Tropical Kingbird (Tyrannus melancholicus)
Tobago 92
Grey Kingbird (Tyrannus dominicensis)
Tobago 60
Fork-tailed Flycatcher (Tyrannus savana)
Trinidad and Tobago 6
Black-tailed Tityra (Tityra cayana)
Trinidad 1
Caribbean Martin (Progne dominicensis)
Tobago 180
Grey-breasted Martin (Progne chalybea)
Trinidad 122
White-winged Swallow (Tachycineta albiventer)
Tobago 4 Stonehaven Bay
Southern Rough-winged Swallow (Stelgidopteryx ruficollis)
Trinidad 6
Barn Swallow (Hirundo rustica erythrogaster)
Tobago 20
Rufous-breasted Wren (Thryothorus rutilus)
Tobago 8
House Wren (Troglodytes aedon)
Tobago 4
Tropical Mockingbird (Mimus (polyglottos) gilvus)
Tobago 56
Yellow-legged Thrush (Platycichla flavipes)
Tobago 2 Gilpin Trace
Cocoa Thrush (Turdus fumigatus)
Trinidad 24
Bare-eyed Robin (Turdus nudigenis)
Trinidad and Tobago 60
White-necked Thrush (Turdus albicollis)
Tobago 8
Long-billed Gnatwren (Ramphocaenus melanurus)
Trinidad 2
Red-eyed Vireo (Vireo olivaceus)
Tobago 42
Scrub Greenlet (Hylophilus flavipes)
Tobago 6
Golden-fronted Greenlet (Hylophilus aurantiifrons)
Trinidad 8
Rufous-browed Peppershrike (Cyclarhis gujanensis)
Trinidad 1
Tropical Parula (Parula pitiayumi)
Trinidad 2
Blackpoll Warbler (Dendroica striata)
Tobago 1 Pigeon Point
Northern Waterthrush (Seiurus noveboracensis)
Trinidad and Tobago 9
Masked Yellowthroat (Geothlypis aequinoctialis)
Trinidad 6 Nariva Swamp
Golden-crowned Warbler (Basileuterus culicivorus)
Trinidad 2 AWNC
Bananaquit (Coereba flaveola)
Tobago 190
White-lined Tanager (Tachyphonus rufus)
Trinidad and Tobago 58
Red-crowned Ant-tanager (Habia rubica)
Trinidad 2 AWNC
Silver-beaked Tanager (Ramphocelus carbo)
Trinidad 40
Blue-grey Tanager (Thraupis episcopus)
Tobago 200
Palm Tanager (Thraupis palmarum)
Tobago 200
Trinidad Euphonia (Euphonia (chlorotica) trinitatis)
Trinidad 2
Violaceous Euphonia (Euphonia violacea)
Tobago 26
Turquoise Tanager (Tangara mexicana)
Trinidad 3 AWNC
Speckled Tanager (Tangara guttata)
Trinidad 12
Bay-headed Tanager (Tangara gyrola)
Trinidad 6
Blue Dacnis (Dacnis cayana)
Trinidad 5
Green Honeycreeper (Chlorophanes spiza)
Trinidad 32
Purple Honeycreeper (Cyanerpes caeruleus)
Trinidad 40
Red-legged Honeycreeper (Cyanerpes cyaneus)
Trinidad and Tobago 30
Blue-black Grassquit (Volatinia jacarina)
Trinidad and Tobago 26
Black-faced Grassquit (Tiaris bicolor)
Tobago 22
Grassland Yellow-finch (Sicalis luteola)
Trinidad 8 Aripo Livestock Centre
Greyish Saltator (Saltator coerulescens)
Trinidad 4
Yellow-hooded Blackbird (Agelaius icterocephalus)
Trinidad 4
Red-breasted Blackbird (Sturnella militaris)
Trinidad 6
Carib Grackle (Quiscalus lugubris)
Trinidad and Tobago 90
Shiny Cowbird (Molothrus bonariensis)
Trinidad and Tobago 92
Giant Cowbird (Molothrus oryzivorus)
Trinidad and Tobago 38
Moriche Oriole (Icterus (cayanensis) chrysocephalus)
Trinidad 2 Waller Field
Yellow Oriole (Icterus nigrogularis)
Trinidad 6
Yellow-rumped Cacique (Cacicus cela)
Trinidad and Trinidad 8
Crested Oropendola (Psarocolius decumanus)
Trinidad and Tobago 60