Initially we decided to continue our South Pacific Odyssey with a trip to Fiji. However it very soon became obvious that a week was too long and so we decided to include Samoa, a destination very few birders appear to have visited. After looking into the flights, we decided that as we were going that far, we may as well make it a two week trip and include New Caledonia as we were both very keen to see Kagu. Somehow, mainly due to the flight schedule, the trip was expanded to include Vanuatu. In the end we took 17 flights, beating our Micronesian trip by one, rented 4 cars, took numerous taxis, stayed in 9 different hotels and camped for two nights. Crazy on paper, crazy in reality. In the end we cut it a bit too fine and missed some key birds, Long-legged Warbler, Guadalcanal Thicketbird, New Hebrides Scrubfowl and Friendly Ground Dove.
With the recent trend for splitting, we made a concerted effort to try and see all the island forms of the various species for future armchair ticks.
The logistics at first appeared daunting as we had to visit nine islands in four different countries and flights between countries were not daily. After many weeks of studying various options and permutations we managed to come up with an itinerary that worked, but was very tight for time. If the birds fell into place and the flights all departed on time, it would work.
Accommodation ranged from a spiffy resort in New Caledonia to camping on Pic Santo in Vanuatu. In the end we stayed in nine different hotels and camped on two nights. We did not pre-book any accommodation on Samoa, where we just found a motel for two nights and a beach fale for one night. On Fiji we stayed at the Raintree Lodge on Viti Levu and the Garden Resort on Taveuni, both pre-booked over the internet. On Kadavu we just turned and stayed at the Airport Inn next to the airport which consisted of three beach huts which although basic were very good value. In New Caledonia we stayed in pre-booked resorts/hotels and on Vanuatu we camped for two nights and stayed in a motel for two nights. None of the accommodation was particularly cheap, the most expensive being in New Caledonia.
We ate well. Instead of the usual junk food, we ate proper meals most nights in Samoa and Fiji. In New Caledonia, due to the cost we opted for French bread and cheese from the supermarket and picnicking. For the trek to Pic Santo we took rice and canned fish and cooked over an open fire.
Neither of us suffered any medical problems during the trip. The main problem we encountered were ticks on the trek up Pic Santo and both of us suffered a number of bites. Although malaria is widespread in Vanuatu we encountered very few mosquitoes.
We were very fortunate with the weather during our stay we had no rain to speak of, just a short shower in Samoa. The temperature was a very pleasant in the mid to high twenties with low humidity.
Islands and the Endemics
Samoa
We found Samoa to be very laid back, but although generally helpful, the islanders are very religious and appeared to be a little wary of westerners. According to the travel guides most shops and petrol stations close on Sunday, however we found that this was not the case, even though we were there during a National Holiday.
Despite extensive research we could find very few trip reports and those that did exist were quite old. However from what could find it appeared that most of the endemics were easy to see with the exception of the White-eye, as it only occurred above 1,400 metres on the island of Savai’i and Tooth-billed Pigeon for which we could find no confirmed sightings for many years.
During the planning stages there was much debate on the itinerary for the three days we were to spend on the Island. All the endemics apart from the White-eye occur on the main island Upolu. To see the White-eye we would have to go to the Island of Savai’i an hour ferry ride away and hike up to 1,400m in the Apo Cloud Forest. We were still undecided as we were about to leave, when we managed to contact John Mittermeier, who had just returned from a three-month trip to Samoa trying to locate the presumed-extinct Samoan Moorhen. He had no luck with the Moorhen but did inform us that a Tooth-billed Pigeon had been seen within the last year on the small offshore island of Nu’utele off the coast of Upolu and during a day visit he made to the island in August 2005 he had heard one. Apart from that, despite being in the field for nearly three months, he had only heard one bird in the Apo Cloud Forest. We therefore decided to ditch the White-eye and concentrate our efforts on the Pigeon.
Our hopes were dashed as once we arrived at the village of Ulutogia, where boats to Nu’utele could be arranged, we found that a research group had only just left the island and despite spending two weeks there with nets and infra red cameras, they had failed to locate or even hear a single bird. What chance did we have in two days? Having already seen all the other endemics, we debated how best to spend our remaining two days, either make a dash to Savai’i and try for the White-eye or stay where we were and do some seawatching. Graham was rather keen to go for the White-eye, however in the end Chris won and we spent the time seawatching. The main reason being that our visit coincided with a Samoan National Holiday and it may not have been possible to find a guide willing to take us high enough to see the White-eye without paying an extortionate sum and there was the possibility of bagging a couple of seabird ticks where we were. In the end we spent two days seawatching and saw one new seabird. Not the best use of our time.
We only visited three sites, all on the main island of Upolu.
Located about 6km from the centre of Apia. Take the main cross-Island road from the centre of town and after about 2km turn left. Not long after crossing a river the road reaches a three-way junction. Take the right hand turn (Magiaitai Road) and follow the road to where it ends at a small concrete reservoir. Park by the reservoir and walk along the dirt track to the left of the reservoir with a larger water pipe on your right. After about 20-50 metres the pipe dips underground. Turn right here and head down into the valley along a small rough dirt track. Once you reach the valley floor, follow the main water pipe up the valley to the water intake area. We saw all the endemics in this area. The Parrotfinch was found feeding on grass adjacent to the water pipe and Mao was found about 50 metres before the water intake area. We tried to access the forest but could find no trails.
Cloud 9 Eco Lodge is located about a 15-minute drive from the centre of Apia. The lodge overlooks an excellent forested valley and birds can be seen flying over and perched in the trees. Although we did not stay at the lodge, the owner was very happy for us to stand on the veranda, which overlooked the valley. We made two visits, one during the day was not very productive due to the timing, however an evening visit produced many Doves and Pigeons. If time permits I would recommend staying there.
Although the area around the lodge appeared to contain good forest, we were unsuccessful in managing to find a way into any decent areas.
Located about an hour west of Apia the dam provides a good vantage point for viewing the surrounding forest. A previous stake out for Tooth-billed Pigeon, the forest is now somewhat degraded following the huge cyclone in the early nineties. We saw very little here.
Fiji was our favourite of the countries we visited. The people were very friendly and the three islands that need to be visited to see all the endemics each have their own unique charm. Access between the islands is by small inter-island planes which were efficient and ran on time. All the endemics are fairly easy to see with the exception of Long-legged Warbler. We basically messed up for two reasons. Number one we failed to contact Vili from Birdlife International as soon as we arrived in Fiji to get the latest information and to hopefully employee his services to show us the best site. When we did try to contact him he was not in the office and so we were left to our own devices. Secondly, the drive from Suva to Monasavu Dam took longer than expected and we lost time birding en route. In hindsight we should have driven up in the evening and camped so we were on site at first light, giving us longer and the advantage of dawn. In the end we didn’t get to the site until 8.30am and only had three hours. We did hear at least two birds calling intermittently but had no sightings.
If we had more time, it would have been worth spending a evening seawatching off Taveuni as we saw a large number of distance birds at dusk, but there was just not enough light to identify them.
We didn’t even plan to try for Pink-billed Parrotfinch as to quote Guy Dutson, it’s seen once in about every 40 hours of searching. As for Red-throated Parrot there have been no sightings for many years.
The main reason for going to Taveuni is to see Silktail and the stunning Orange Dove, both of which can be seen on Des Voeux Peak. We did note that a number of people struggled with Orange Dove there and so we decided to visit Qeleni Road as this appeared to be a better site.
Like most other birders we stayed at the Garden Island Resort www.aquatrek.com. Although basically a dive resort, they are used to birders and arranged transport to met us at the airport, take us to Qeleni road and Des Voeux Peak and return us to the airport. The transport was on time and the driver was knowledgeable about birds.
Located about 10mins from the airport, Qeleni Road is a rough dirt track about 5km long that starts from the coast road and heads up into the central mountains. It is drivable in a pickup/4 wheel drive. The road passes mainly through coconut plantations and trashed forest but the surrounding area contains some half-decent tracks of forest. We drove to the top and then slowly walked down birding from the track. Because the habitat is open, Doves and Pigeons are easier to see as they fly over. Friendly Ground Dove occurs in the area but we didn’t spend enough time looking for it, instead opting to look for seabirds.
A track runs from the coastal road to the telegraph station on top of the peak. It takes about 40mins to drive to a gate about three-quarters of the way to the top, this being the best area for Silktail. Above the gate the forest is somewhat degraded and hence there is no need to go any higher. We parked at the gate and headed down the track, after about 40m there was a very indistinct trail leading into the forest on the left. It would have been hard to see if the driver had not shown it us. Further down, about 120m from the gate, there is another trail on the same side, which is the one most people use to enter the forest. We tried the top trail and we rewarded with great views of Silktail. Walking down from the top gate we heard a number of Orange Doves but seeing them proved very difficult.
This was our favourite island mainly because it is still totally unspoilt by tourism and there were no introduced Mynas or Bulbuls. We stayed at the Airport Inn, a three-minute walk from the airport. The accommodation consisted of straw huts on the beach and although basic, it was excellent value for money as it included meals when we wanted them, e.g. breakfast at 11am after we had finished birding. The best birding area can be reached on foot so there is no need to organize transport
Contrary to what some reports stated, we found a really good large tract of undisturbed forest just outside the main town. From the airport, turn right and follow the coast for about 500m. Take the first main track on the right leading uphill. Follow the track past the school on your right-hand-side and you arrive at a six-way junction. Take the second on the right and continue along this track and after a km you reach some great forest. We walked for about further 4km with good forest most of way, which appeared to continue further.
We saw the Parrot, Fantail and Dove fairly easily, though the Honeyeater proved a little more difficult. It was easier in the morning especially around the town.
The best birding sites are on the east of the island which is a pain as the international airport is on the west side. However flights to all the other islands also depart from Suva. We flew one way and drove across the central mountains on the way back. We hired a 4-wheel drive vehicle for the drive back which was needed mainly for the high clearance rather than the 4-wheel drive capability, although this would probably be required if it is wet.
Sites
Raintree Lodge
Situated about 20 minutes from Suva airport next to Colo-I-Suva forest, this small eco lodge is surrounded by degraded forest. It is possible to see most of the endemics in the limited grounds but perhaps only if there is a fruiting tree to attract the Doves. We struggled here, possibly because of our limited time and hence widened our search into the nearby Colo-I-Suva Park, the entrance to which is just across the road from the Lodge. We did eventually manage to see Masked Parrot and Giant Honeyeater and the park was the only place we saw Blue-crested Flycatcher.
The main reason for visiting the central highlands is for Long-legged Warbler. We visited the site mentioned in Josh Engel’s report and although we heard at least two birds, we had no luck seeing them. Although the drive is along dirt roads for most of the way it is not difficult, although there are very few signs and so a descent map is essential. The two times we got lost we asked local villages who pointed us in the right direction. During the drive we found some excellent areas of forest and this was the only place we saw Golden Dove. The area could produce many, if not all, of the endemics.
Being an overseas dependency of France, New Caledonia was very westernised and also very expensive. French is the main langue although English is fairly widely spoken. It was amazing how much of our school day French came back to us whilst we were there. The three main sites are all within 100km of the capital, however you do need a car to get to them
Due to the langue problem, a number of our e-mails seeking accommodation and car rental were not answered, so we used a travel agent (www.arcenciel-voyages.nc) who arranged car hire and hotels and also gave us a contact for visiting Riviere Bleue. Although not cheap, they were very efficient
Again, all the endemics are not particularly difficult to see, although people do struggle with the Grassbird, which is apparently easier to see in the north. A visit to Parc Riviere Bleue is essential to be sure of seeing at least three of the endemics and to Lifou for the two White-eyes. We did not attempt to see Ouvea Parrot as it occurs only on Ouvea, where there is no access without using guides and also it’s full species status is questionable (HBW).
Located about 100km east of the capital Nomea. From La Foa take the main road north and after about 2km turn right signposted Refuge de Farino. Follow the signs to the refuge (there are a couple of further turnings) and after a few kms the road heads downhill where there is a small Chapel on the right. Turn left opposite the Chapel, cross the river and follow the track a short distance until you come to a cattle grid. We parked here and walked up the track for a few kms. We found the whole area to be very birdy and quickly obtained great views of Cloven-feathered Dove, New Caledonian Crow and New Caledonian Goshawk, all of which are difficult at Mount Khogis, plus many of the other commoner endemics. We were informed that the Grassbird occurred in the lantana gullies, however despite extensive playback we failed to get any response. We carried on along the track into a more open area and just before the track started to descend gently to a large open flat area, we got a response to our playback. It was basically in the first area of tall grass we had come across.
We also spent some time by the river at the Refuge de Farino located about a km further along the road past the chapel.
Located about a 45-minute drive north east of Noumea, this is the only site for Kagu, Crow Honeyeater and New Caledonian Cuckoo-Shrike. It was previously possible to drive into the park, however in 2002 a tropical cyclone destroyed the bridge, making it impossible to access the park independently by private car. Since then it has only been possible to gain access by arranging this in advance with Yves, the resident ornithologist. He has now semi-retired and has been replaced by Jean Marc Meriot. (parcrivierebleue@province-sud.nc). We contacted Jean well in advance and arranged for him to guide us for a day. Note he only works Tuesday-Friday. We were informed that we needed a 4-wheel drive car for the trip but in reality this is probably not essential as the roads are being improved.
Whilst we were there a lot of work was taking place to improve the roads and according to Jean, by the end of 2005 the park will reopen to the public, however access will only be special buses from the entrance gate. I would still recommend using Jean as he has all the goodies staked out.
We were somewhat disappointed with the park as we had expected large tracts of forest, whereas in reality the forest remains only in the valley floor, and much of the surrounding hills have been cleared, in common with much of the island. The remaining forest does however hold the birds. Although Yves has retired, he still spends most of his time in the park and we were able to meet him whilst we were there. He is currently studying Crow Honeyeater, which has seriously declined in recent years and there are now estimated to be only 200 pairs remaining - by far the rarest endemic.
As described in other reports Jean uses tapes at full blast to attract the birds and whilst this works very effectively, it does take some of the excitement out of seeing them.
Located about 20 minutes north of Noumea, a number of trails lead from the Auberge. We found the area hard going however it does hold a good selection of the endemics. We spent an afternoon here walking the various trails.
The island of Lifou is located off the east coast of New Caledonia and is served by a number of daily flights. The flights depart from the domestic airport, which is close to the centre of Noumea.
The island appears from the air to be almost entirely covered by low forest. On arrival at the airport we headed out on foot and turned left by the football pitch. About 500m along this road a dirt track bears off to the right with forest on either side. Small Lifou White-eye was seen easily however Large Lifou White-eye took some finding. We could hear them - they have a Blackbird like song - but seeing them proved very difficult. The only way we saw them was to wait until we heard one singing and then go into the forest and try and track it down. It took a number of attempts before we were successful. We forgot our tape so we don’t know whether they would respond to playback.
The Lifou form of Silvereye is worth seeing as it is very distinctive, being dark on the head and must be a good potential split.
As the Island is not surrounded by reefs, Chris did some seawatching which proved fruitful even during mid-afternoon, so if time allows it may be worth spending a night on the Island as evening should be better.
This was the least developed of the islands we visited and was very laid back, including the capital, Port Villa, a so-called international financial centre.
All the endemics occur almost exclusively on the Island of Espirito Santo, commonly called Santo, and so a domestic flight is required. We used a local agent, Rolenes Tavue (rolenas.tavue@positiveearth.org) to make all the arrangements for the trek, which included transport, access fees, guide and porter fees and everything went to plan. The only vague point was who was to supply food for the guides and porters. In the end we took enough food for them, which was welcomed as they had brought no food themselves.
Due to our limited time we decided to concentrate on the mountain Pic Santo and not visit the Loru Protected Area, a lowland reserve where the Scrubfowl and Kingfisher are easier to see. In hindsight and with more time, it would have been advisable to visit this area.
We underestimated the trek. We believed that we could climb to at least 1,500m on the first day especially as we were setting out very early. In the end we discovered we were not superheroes and only made it to 900m, after a gruelling 11-hour walk. There appears to be a trail all the way to the top, although in places it is somewhat overgrown. From our experience, it should be possible to reach the top in two days of hard trekking. The first 4 hours of the trek are through coconut plantation and degraded forest with a number of rivers to be forded. As soon as we reached good forest we started to see some of the endemics. We camped at 900m metres where water was available. It was about at this height that we started to see New Hebrides Honeyeater and Palm Lorikeet. The following day we walked higher for a further 3 hours and reached 1,230m. We only saw one Rusty-winged Starling, but we heard nothing that remotely resembled Guadalcanal Thicketbird, although this is supposed to the characteristic sound of the higher altitude forest. We descended to 300m and camped at this altitude on the second night. The following morning we retraced our steps to 450m and birding along a ridge where we heard New Hebrides Scrubfowl but did not see any. The trek is not particularly hard it is just long as you follow an undulating ridge.
Our thanks go to all the people who provided us with information especially those who posted trip reports on the web. Special thanks go to Guy Dutson of Birdlife International for providing valuable contact and site details for many of the islands and a recording of Long-legged Warbler. We would also like to thank John Mittermeier for providing information regarding the sites on Samoa.
Finally I would like to thank all the people we met during our trip for making it a hassle free-trip that we will remember for a long time.
New Caledonia 22 - 27th Nov 2004 - Paul Noakes
A birding Trip to Vanuatu and New Caledonia 3 - 17th July 1999 - Barry Wright & Neil Bostock
New Caledonia 9 - 17th Dec 2000 - Phil Gregory
New Caledonia 20 - 29th July 2002 - Dave Klauber
New Caledonia 22nd Oct - 6th Nov 1999 - Tony Clarke
Fiji 27th Nov - 5th Dec 2004 - Paul Noakes
Fiji 2 - 16th Nov 2004 - Josh Engel
Fiji 26th Aug - 9th Sept 2000 - Tony Clarke
American Samoa and Western (Independent Samoa) Nov 17 - 20th 2000 - Craig Faanes
Upolu (Samoa) March - April 1999 - Peter Longsdale
Western Samoa July 1996 - Peter Longsdale
A Guide to the Birds of Fiji & Western Polynesia - Dick Watling
The Birds of The Solomons, Vanuatu & New Caledonia - Chris Doughty, Nicolas Day, Andrew Plant
Field Guide to the Birds of Australia - Simpson & Day
Lonely Planet Guide to Vanuatu
Lonely Planet Guide to Fiji
Lonely Planet Guide to Samoa
Lonely Planet Guide to New Caledonia
Friday 7th October
Chris departed Hong Kong on the 19.30pm fight to Sydney arriving at 6am the following morning. Graham had left for Sydney two days previously.
Saturday 8th October
Chris arrived at Sydney at 06.30am and was quickly through immigration and met Graham in the arrivals hall. Graham had already arranged a car and we headed to Royal National Park, about 30 minutes from the airport. We started birding at the start of Lady Carrington Drive in an area where Graham had seen Lyrebird a few weeks previously. It was not long before a bird was found and excellent views were obtained as it used its huge feet to scrape the ground searching for grubs. We spent the next hour birding the area before heading to the heathland near the coast, however it was very windy and hence seeing anything was difficult. Deciding to cut our losses, we spent the last hour at the end of Lady Carrington’s Drive, a stake out for Black-faced Monarch. We soon heard a bird calling and it was not very long before we managed to get excellent views of this stunning bird. By now time was getting on and so we headed back to Sydney airport, dropped off the car and headed to the Air Pacific check-in desk only to find that our flight had been delayed by nearly two hours. Not a good omen, but this turned out to be the only seriously delayed flight of the trip!
Eventually departed Sydney at 4pm and after a short stop over in Tonga we arrived in Samoa at 12.30am on the same day as we had crossed the International Date Line - all very confusing. Our rental car was waiting at the airport for us and we drove to the capital Apia and checked into a small roadside motel.
After 4 hours sleep we headed to the Vaisigano Valley, about 6km north of Apia. As we parked the car by the concrete reservoir we saw our first endemic, a Flat-billed Kingfisher. We walked up the jeep track to the left of the reservoir and after about 20 metres turned right down a less well-defined jeep track heading into the valley. Once in the valley we followed the water pipe up the valley towards the water intake area. It took about four hours to see all the gettable endemics with the exception of the Parrotfinch. Mao was the hardest but we eventually found one calling from the top of a tree about 50m from the water intake area.
By now we were hungry, so we returned to Apia did our domestics and then headed up to Cloud 9 Lodge, situated about 15km north of the capital. The lodge overlooks a really excellent forested valley and great views can be obtained from the veranda. Due to the time of day we saw very little and as our search for suitable habitat in the area proved fruitless, we decided to return to the Vaisigano Valley.
We worked the same area as in the morning, but the valley appeared more birdy, probably as the sun was now shining on the accessible side of the valley. As we made our way to the water intake area, we came across a Red-headed Parrotfinch feeding in long grass adjacent to the main water pipe and this one was quickly followed by another. We again saw all the endemics seen previously in the morning. As dusk fell we returned to the car and checked into a motel and we were soon asleep.
Sunday 9th October
We were up before first light and headed to the south west of the island to the village of Ulutogia where we had hoped to get a boat to Nu’utele Island. We arrived at the village not long after dawn and found the boatman who informed us that a group of researchers had recently spent two weeks on the island hoping to find and study the Tooth-billed Pigeon, but had failed to hear one yet alone see one. We discussed the options and decided that if they couldn’t find one in two weeks, we had no chance in two days. Very disappointed we shelved the idea. This left us in a quandary as we had two days left and we had already seen all the endemics with the exception of the White-eye, which didn’t occur on Upolu. We were split on our next move, either go for the White-eye which would involve a ferry ride and long hike, or stay put area and look for seabirds. Chris won and we decided to stay and headed through a small village to a vantage point where we could overlook the island. Just after entering the village a dog appeared from one of the houses and bit Graham on the back of the leg. Chris was most unperturbed as he felt there was no difference between a rabid Graham and a normal one. We made a hasty retreat, found another view point and spent a number of hours scanning the sea, eventually picking up a Blue Noddy and a number of Grey-backed/Bridled Terns.
By mid-afternoon we had had enough, so after organising to join a fishing charter the following day, we headed to Afulilo Hydroelectric Dam and spent the last two hours of light scanning the degraded forest in the vain hope of seeing a Tooth-bill. Of course we had no luck. It was now dark and we headed back to the coast and checked into a beach Fale for the night.
Monday 10th October
As the boat was not going until 08.30am we had a leisurely morning. We joined the boat and after cruising round the island of Nu’utele we headed out to deep water. Although there were a number of birds, there appeared to be fewer than the previous day, perhaps because the wind had subsided. We soon obtained excellent views of Blue Noddys as they flew very close to the boat, but we could not find any terns that convinced us that they were Grey-backed. The fishing charter stayed out much longer than we anticipated and many hours were spent bobbing around on the sea whilst the punters fished. We eventually returned to shore at 4pm and quickly headed back to Cloud 9, arriving just as the light was starting to fade. We spent what remained of the light birding from the veranda of the lodge overlooking the valley and got excellent views of Many-coloured Fruit Dove sitting in the tops of trees and a single Red-headed Parrotfinch flew by.
As our flight was not leaving until 2am, we decided to check into a motel to clean up and to kill some time. We ventured to Aggie’s, the most famous hotel in the South Pacific in search of the large-breasted Kiwi chicks described in Craig Faanes trip report, but it must have been the wrong time of day, we had no sightings and so settled for a beer.
Returned the hire car, grabbed a few hours sleep and then headed to the airport by taxi where we boarded our fight to Fiji, the next island group on our list.
Tuesday 11th October
Due to crossing the International Date Line we lost Tuesday completely.
Wednesday 12th October
Arrived at Nadi Airport at 4.30am and headed to the domestic terminal where we managed a couple of hours sleep in some very comfortable chairs. Checked in for the 7am short hop flight to Suva, which was delayed by 30 minutes. Arrived in Suva 45 minuets later and caught a taxi to the Raintree Lodge, where we spent the next 4 hours birding the lodge area and the Colo-I- Suva forest. Although it was not the best time of day, it was still very disappointing and we failed to see any of the key endemics we had hoped for. We did hear two Masked Shinning Parrots but just couldn’t see them. We did however see our only Blue-crested Flycatchers of the trip.
We headed back to the airport and caught the 12.30 flight to Kadavu, arriving an hour later. As we had not pre-booked anywhere to stay, we headed out of the airport and checked out the Airport Inn, which was just three grass huts by the sea. It was basic but excellent value and we were made most welcome. We dumped our bags and headed to an area of forest described in other trip reports. Contrary to these reports we found the forest to be excellent. We very soon saw Kadavu Shinning Parrot, which was quickly followed by Whistling Dove and Kadavu Fantail. After several hours we eventually came across a Black-faced Shrikebill which although not an endemic, was a bonus as it is not easy to see elsewhere. We eventually found the final island endemic - Kadavu Honeyeater. By now the light was fading and parched, we headed back to the Inn eagerly looking forward to a nice cold drink only to find that the whole island had sold out of any kind of drink at all as the supply boat had not arrived. We therefore had to settle for warm orange squash with our meal at the motel. That night we were serenaded to sleep by locals singing in the adjacent house.
Thursday 13th October
Chris was very keen to see some seabirds and so decided to try and organise a boat to the outer reef. Graham decided that after our efforts on Samoa he would give it a miss and so headed to the same area of forest we had birded the previous day. As dawn broke the supply ship was seen entering the harbour so at least there would be cold drinks available when we got back from the field. As it was early morning birds were much more active in the forest and at one time all 4 endemics could be seen almost at the same time. The only new additions to the trip were Fiji Shrikebill and White-throated Pigeon.
Chris managed to arrange a small boat which took him out to the edge of the reef, however the trip was very unproductive and very little was seen.
We met back at the motel at 11am and after a late breakfast, had a quick swim before packing and heading the short distance to the airport. We caught the 1.30pm flight back to Suva where we changed planes and caught the afternoon flight to Taveuni. Arrived at about 4 pm, were we met at the airport by our pre-booked taxi and immediately headed to Qeleni Road, about a 15 min drive from the airport. We drove to the top of the road route seeing our first endemic Crimson Shining Parrot en route and then headed down on foot. After about 100 metres 3 Orange Doves flew across the road including a stunning male. Our driver who was knowledgeable about the birds put us onto a calling bird which was eventually located sitting in a tree and stunning views were obtained as it perched calling - definitely one of the birds of the trip. As the light started to fade we made our way down to the coast road and stopped briefly at a number of locations en route to the Garden Island Resort scanning the sea. Numerous Shearwaters/Petrels could be seen, but frustratingly due to the poor light none could be identified.
We checked into the Garden Island Resort, had a great meal and had yet another early night, as we wanted to be at the top of Des Voeux Peak at first light.
Friday 14th October
Our driver was waiting for us at 4.30am as arranged and we headed up along a rough track to the top gate of Des Voeux Peak arriving just after dawn and headed into the forest along a small track. At first it was very quiet but eventually we found the target bird Silktail foraging around on the ground and lower undergrowth. We spent a further two hours at the top before slowly walking down until the forest degenerated into scrub and plantation. Although we heard a number of Orange Doves, seeing them was not easy. We did however get good views of the Taveuni form of Giant Honeyeater which looked and called differently from the Viti Levu form.
The taxi then took us back to the resort where we arranged a boat to take us out in the hope we might find some of the Shearwaters/Petrels we had seen the previous night. Although we saw a good selection of seabirds, we saw nothing new. Returned to the resort and decided to try the Qeleni road area again for an hour before our plane left in the hope of seeing Friendly Ground Dove, but it was not the best time of day and not a lot was seen.
The taxi dropped us off at the airport and we caught the 15.30pm flight to Suva, where we picked up our rental car and headed off to the Raintree Lodge. Spent the last 2 hours of light frantically searching for Masked Shinning Parrot, which eventually gave itself up, but there was no sign of Golden Dove. Spent the night at the Raintree lodge
Saturday 15th October
Up at 3am and headed off to Monasavu Dam area in the central highlands. The road was not as bad as we thought it was going to be however we did get lost a couple of times but luckily we had a good map and were soon back on track.
Just after first light a dove was seen flying across the road. We stopped and a fruiting tree produce a superb male Golden Dove with a few females. At 7.30am we eventually arrived at the entrance road to the dam later than we hoped but as it was a Saturday the barrier was closed and so we had to walk the 5km to the Long-legged Warbler site.
Very soon after arriving at the site we heard a bird call from a gully on the reservoir side of the road. We had a tape and thought we would soon pull it out, how wrong could we have been. We spent the next 4 hours in the area hearing at least two birds calling very sporadically and although we tried every trick in the book, we just couldn’t see them. By now it was getting late and as we had a long drive to Nadi, reluctantly we left the area empty-handed.
Headed towards the coast but somehow got completely lost and wasted about an hour trying to find the right road. Eventually we arrived at the coast road and headed to Nadi International airport where we dropped off the car and caught the 17.30pm flight to New Caledonia, our next island.
Arrived at Noumea airport at 6.30pm, picked up our rental car and drove the 60km to La Foa, where we checked into our pre-booked hotel Banu. Had a quick beer and retired for the night.
Sunday 16th October
Were up by 4.30am and after a quick breakfast headed to Farino. The directions we had were a little confusing, however we eventually found the correct area. We parked the car and headed up the track that rose slowly along the side of a valley. It immediately struck us that the area was very birdy and very soon we saw New Caledonian Crow and Cloven-feathered Dove as well as some of the other commoner endemics. We slowly carried on up the track playing the Grassbird tape in all the gullies, but no joy. As we climbed, the forest thinned out but we continued to randomly play the tape until eventually we got a response in basically the first area of long reedy grass we had come across. Knowing how difficult this species was to see, we positioned ourselves so that we could view an open area in the long grass and played the tape again. Almost immediately the bird responded and much to our surprise came and perched right out in the open. It was joined by second bird and they both gave prolonged views.
We were very pleased as previous trip reports indicated that we could struggle with this bird and this also saved us a 150km drive to another site near the west coast. We made our way back to the car and drove the short distance to the La Farino Refuge which was also very birdy and we spent an hour birding along the river.
By now it was gone midday so we headed towards Noumea to the domestic airport, picked up our tickets for the following days flight to Lifou and had something to eat.
After completing the domestics we headed to Mount Khogis, about a 20-minute drive from the centre of town and spent the remainder of the day birding the various trails. After Farino we found Khogis rather hard going birding wise, but we did manage to find a few more of the endemics.
At dusk we returned to Noumea and checked in to a pre-booked resort which for New Caledonia was good value for money.
Monday 17th October
Up yet again before first light and drove to the domestic airport where we had breakfast before catching the slightly delayed 6am flight to Lifou, arriving 45 minutes later. Once at Lifou airport we headed down the road to a cross roads where we turned left and birded a wide dirt track through the forest. We very soon saw Small Lifou White-eye and the very distinctive form of Silver-eye but Large White-eye was much more difficult to find. We heard a number of birds calling but seeing them proved to be difficult and we didn’t have our tape. Eventually we managed good views but we had to get under the canopy to do so.
We were due to the leave on the 14.00pm flight, however Chris decided he wanted to stay and do some seawatching from a headland and catch the last flight back. Graham on the other hand was not keen on seeing specs out at sea and decided to return on the original flight.
So at about 11am we split, Chris hitching a lift to Tingeting where he thought there was a trail to a nearby headland. After discussions with the local villagers, he set off on a trail through the forest in the general direction of the headland. After about an hour the trail had almost petered out to nothing and he decided that maybe it was not such a good idea to continue and so turned round only to find that he could not locate the trail he had come along. He was lost. Luckily had his compass and knew that if kept heading west he should eventually met a road. He then spent two hours hacking his way through the undergrowth and eventually battered and scratched and very relieved he reached the road. Still determined to see some seabirds he headed to a nearby village and found a path to the coast however it ended in a bay and so not an ideal location. He persevered and amongst the hundreds of Short-tailed Shearwaters he saw three well-deserved Gould’s Petrels.
Chris returned to Lifou airport in time to catch the early evening flight to Noumea where he took a taxi to the hotel.
Graham on the other hand had a much more uneventful day. He returned on the 14.00pm flight, changed the car as we needed a 4-wheel drive for Parc Riviere Bleue and then spent the evening on the beach in front of the hotel where distant views of seabirds were obtained.
Tuesday 18th October
Set off before first light again and headed to Parc Riviere Bleue, arriving at the entrance at about 6.30am. Whilst waiting to meet Jean we birded the area around the entrance gate and were rewarded with great views of Horned Parakeet, one of our target birds. Jean arrived as arranged at 7am and after the introductions we followed him into the park. A new road had been built bypassing the bridge and very soon we were into forest. After a short drive through the forest we meet Yves who had already staked out a Kagu. Excellent views were obtained as it crept through the forest. We were very happy at seeing the bird however we were somewhat deflated as it was so easy. Sometimes the best birds are the ones you really have to work for.
Yves who is currently studying the Crow Honeyeater took us to a known breeding site however he was not very confident of seeing one as they did not always respond to the tape. On this occasion though we were lucky and we saw one immediately on arrival foraging in the top of a tree.
There was now only one endemic remaining - New Caledonian Cuckoo-Shrike and with the aid of Yves’ tape, very soon we had scored. The rest of the morning was spent in the park obtaining excellent views of some of the endemics we had previously seen. We had further stunning views of Kagu, in fact they were so close that the camera would not focus. It was now midday, as we had seen everything and as Chris was keen to continue his seabird quest, we decided to leave the park at return to Noumea.
Chris was very keen to try and see some more seabirds and was determined to get to a small island about a km off the beach, full of people soaking up the rays. Graham on the other hand decided that he would do some domestics and spend the evening seawatching from the beach.
Chris made it out to the island using a water taxi, however despite the fact that he must of stuck out like a sore thumb with his boots, hat, scope and other paraphernalia whilst everyone else was in swim wear, they forgot he was on the island and the last boat departed without him. After yelling frantically but fruitlessly he had just about resigned to spending the night on the island, when a security guard appeared from one of the huts and summoned a boat to pick him up. Another close shave. The rest of the evening was spent seawatching from the beach where a number of very close Short-tailed Shearwaters were seen but very little else.
Wednesday 19th October 2005
Left the hotel at 6am for the airport and caught the 08.45am flight to Vanuatu, our last country, arriving some two hours later. Our flight to Santo did not depart until late afternoon so we picked up our tickets from the domestic airport and headed to the wharf to see if any fishing charters were going out. There were none so we took a taxi to Pango Pango point from where we sea watched for 3 hours seeing large numbers of Short-tailed and one Audubon’s Shearwater. We returned to the airport and caught our flight to Santo. Rolenes, our contact in Santo was at the airport to meet us from where we took a taxi to a small motel in town and then headed to the supermarket to buy provisions and cooking utensils for the trek.
Thursday 20th October 2005
Woke at 3.30am as our transport to take us to the start of the trek was due to arrive at 4am. By 4.30am it had not arrived and we were getting somewhat worried that the final leg of our journey may not happen. However it eventually arrived and we headed to the village of Ipayato where we met the village chief and picked up 4 porters. We drove the short distance to the edge of a coconut plantation and prepared for the trek. Setting off at 6.30am we could see the top of Pico Santo in the distance. It didn’t seem that far away and we were confident that we could get to the top that day. We soon discovered that we were not super heroes as by mid-afternoon, after trekking solidly for nearly 9 hours and fording 7 rivers, we were still only at 700 metres. We continued on for another two hours and just as it was getting dark we eventually made camp at 900 metres, well short of our target. As we struggled to find the energy to erect the tent, the porters pottered around as if they had just been on an afternoon stroll in the park. We knew that we had no chance of getting anywhere near the top and decided that the following day we would hike up as far as we could in 3 hours and then start to make our way back down and camp at a lower altitude with the hope of seeing some the lowland endemics.
Friday 21st October 2005
Started to head further up the mountain as soon as it became light. New Hebrides Honeyeaters were common at this altitude and after seeing a number of fly bys we eventually obtained great views of a Palm Lorikeet feeding in a tree. We continued trekking, stopping at good-looking gullies in the hope of finding a Thicketbird, but we didn’t hear anything that sounded remotely like one. At one of the gullies after some pishing a Rusty-winged Starting came in and gave brief views. After the allotted three hours we had reached a height of 1,230 metres. We had been climbing quite hard and believed that if time permitted we could of made the top that day. However time had run out and we descended to the camp where we had an early lunch. Broke camp and headed down the mountain to the area described in Wright’s report at about 300m. It was a long trek and as the light was fading a pair of New Hebrides Scrubfowl were flushed and glimpsed briefly as they flew through the forest. Just as it was getting dark we arrived at a campsite. It had been a very long and tiring day and we only just had enough energy to erect the tents and have dinner. As we lay on the forest floor we looked up at the amazing night sky, a treat not possible in Hong Kong due to the pollution.
Saturday 22nd October 2005
Again up before first light. With one guide we headed up to the area where we had seen the Scrubfowl the previous day, whilst the porters headed back down towards the road. As soon as we reached the area we heard at least two Scrubfowl calling but the forest floor was covered in dense scrub and we stood no chancing of seeing them. On top of that, our microphone was not working which meant there was no chance of playback. We spent a couple of hours trying but eventually knew we were beaten. We continued birding the area and with luck, we both saw a movement high up in a tree at the same time and as we put out bins on the area, picked up a Chestnut-bellied Kingfisher, a great consolation prize. It was now mid-morning and it was a long way back to the road, reluctantly we left the area and commenced the long trek back. In fact it was not as far as we had been led to believe and in three hours we were back at the road awaiting our transport to take us back to Lugenville. We said our goodbyes to the guides and porters and headed back to the motel where we had left most of our gear. Spent an hour relaxing before heading to the airport, in what can only be described as the most dilapidated taxi I have ever been in. You were scared to touch anything, let alone open the door just in case it fell off. We eventually arrived at the airport after a stop for petrol. I think the few litres of petrol that was put in was worth more than the car. Met Rolenes at the airport, settled her bill and caught the evening flight to Port Villa where we checked into a hotel for the night had a very well deserved shower before heading out for a few beers to reflect on our trek
Sunday 23rd October 2005
The previous night we had called a number of deep fishing charter companies to see if we could join a morning trip however none were going out that day and so in the end we decided to try Pango Pango Point again. This time seabirds were in short supply, however we did add Whimbrel to our trip list. The taxi picked us up at the pre-determined time and we returned to our hotel, packed and headed to the airport to start the long journey home. As we had a 4 hour stopover in Sydney, decided to try and check our bags all the way through to Hong Kong even though we were not using the same airline for the last leg. It appeared that it was possible and so with some trepidation we said goodbye to our bags and caught the 14.30pm flight to Sydney and decided to spend the layover sightseeing. Departed on our seventeenth and final flight in the late evening.
Monday 24th October 2005
Arrived in Hong Kong at 5am and to our amazement our bags arrived with us. Took a taxi home and we were in work by 8am.
The systematic list has been divided into two with all the birds seen on the Pacific Islands grouped in one list and the birds seen in Australia detailed in a separate list.
Short-tailed Shearwater Puffinus tenuirostris
New Caledonia
Thousands off Lifou 17th October
Thousands off Noumea 18th October
Vanuatu
Two thousand Pango Pango Point 19th October with one hundred there on 23rd October
Audubon’s Shearwater Puffinus iherminieri
Vanuatu
One Pango Pango Point 19th October
Gould’s Petrel Pterodroma leucoptera
New Caledonia
Three off Lifou 17th October
Red-footed Booby Sula sula
Samoa
Twenty seen seawatching from Ulutogia 9th and 10th October
Fiji
Three from boat off Taveuni 14th October
New Caledonia
Forty off Lifou 17th October
Vanuatu
Two Pango Pango Point 23rd October
Brown Booby Sula leucogaster
Samoa
Twenty seen seawatching from Ulutogia 9th October and fifty seen from the boat off Ulutogia 10th October
Fiji
Three from boat off Taveuni 14th October
Little Pied Cormorant Phalacrocorax melanoleucos
New Caledonia
One en route Noumea to Riviere Bleue and five from Noumea 18th October
Great Frigatebird Fregata minor
Samoa
Three seen seawatching from Ulutogia 9th October
Fiji
One Kadavu 13th October
Lesser Frigatebird Fregata ariel
Samoa
Ten seawatching from Ulutogia 9th October
Samoa
Up to 300 of either Great or Lesser seen from the boat off Ulutogia
White-tailed Tropicbird Phaethon lepturus
Samoa
Up to ten seen flying over the forest at Cloud 9 and Vaisigano Valley 8th October
One Cloud 9 10th October
White-faced Heron Egretta novaehollandiae
Fiji
Two en route from Suva to the Raintree Lodge 12th October
One Suva airport 14th October
New Caledonia
A total of four en route Farino to Noumea 16th October
Pacific Reef-Heron Egretta sacra
Samoa
Ulutogia one 9th and two 10th October
Fiji
One Kadavu 13th October
One bottom of Qeleni Road 13th October
One Taveuni 14th October
Pacific Black Duck Anas superciliosa
Samoa
Two Afulilo Hydroelectric Dam 9th October
New Caledonia
Four Noumea wetland 18th October
Osprey Pandion haliaetus
New Caledonia
One en route Noumea to Riviere Bleue 18th October
Swamp Harrier Circus approximans
Fiji
One en route from Suva to the Raintree Lodge 12th October
One Kadavu 12th October and 13th October
One en route Monasavu Dam to Nadi 15th October
New Caledonia
A total of six between Farino and Noumea 16th October
Vanuatu
One en route Lugenville to Pic Santo 20th October
Three Lugenville airport 22nd October
Fiji Goshawk Accipiter rufitorques (Endemic)
Fiji
Kadavu three 12th and one 13th October
One Qeleni Road and one Des Voeux Peak 14th October
One Monasavu Dam area 15th October
New Caledonian Goshawk Accipiter haplochrous (Endemic)
New Caledonia
Two sightings possibly same bird Farino 16th October
One heard Mt Khogis 16th October
Peregrine Falcon peregrinus
New Caledonia
One Lifou 17th October
New Hebrides Scrubfowl Megapodius layardi (Endemic)
Vanuatu
Two heard calling and glimpsed in flight at 430m Pic Santo 21st October
Two heard calling at 430m 22nd October. The same site as previous day
Buff-banded Rail Rallus philippensis
Samoa
A common roadside bird especially in the early morning. Up to 40 seen in the one hour journey from Apia to Ulutogia
New Caledonia
Two Farino 16th October
One en route Noumea to Riviere Bleue 18th October
Purple Swamphen Porphyrio melanotus
Samoa
Two Vaisigano Valley 8th October
New Caledonia
Six Noumea wetland 18th October
Dusky Moorhen Gallinula tenebrosa
New Caledonia
Two Noumea wetland 18th October
Kagu Rhynochetos jubatus (Endemic)
New Caledonia
Four Riviere Bleue 18th October
Pacific Golden Plover Pluvialis fulva
Samoa
Two Apia town 8th October
Ten en route Apia to Ulutogia 9th October and a similar number on the return journey 10th October
Fiji
Fifteen Kadavu airport 12th October
Five en route to Qeleni Road 13th October
Three Suva airport 14th October
Vanuatu
Five Pango Pango Point 23rd October
Whimbrel Numenius phaeopus
Vanuatu
One Pango Pango Point 19th October
Four Pango Pango Point 23rd October
Wandering Tattler Tringa incana
Samoa
Two on the beach at Ulutogia and two at Afulilo Hydroelectric Dam 9th October
One Ulutogia 10th October
Fiji
One on beach Taveuni 13th October
Ruddy Turnstone Arenaria interpres
Vanuatu
Pango Pango Point one 19th and 23rd October
Bar-tailed Godwit Limosa lapponica
New Caledonia
Six en route Noumea to Riviere Bleue 18th October
Silver Gull Larus novaehollandiae
New Caledonia
Fifty on the beach Noumea 17th October and 20 on 18th October
Greater Crested Tern Sterna bergii
Fiji
Eight Kadavu 13th October
Two off Taveuni 13th October and eight from the boat off Taveuni 14th October
New Caledonia
One off Lifou 17th October
Vanuatu
Pango Pango Point ten 19th and one 23rd October
Roseate Tern Sterna dougallii
New Caledonia
Five Hundred off Noumea 18th October
Black-naped Tern Sterna sumatrana
Fiji
30 from boat off Taveuni 14th October
New Caledonia
100 off Noumea 18th October
Bridled Tern Sterna anaethetus
Samoa
Three seen seawatching from Ulutogia
Three from the boat off Ulutogia 10th October
Fiji
Four from boat off Taveuni 14th October
New Caledonia
Five off Noumea 18th October
We could not convince ourselves that any terns seen were Grey-backed
Sooty Tern Sterna fuscata
New Caledonia
Thirty off Lifou 17th October
Vanuatu
Five Pango Pango Point Vanuatu
Fifteen Pango Pango Point 23rd October
Black Noddy Anous minutus
Samoa
Up to 100 from the boat off Ulutogia 10th October. Appeared to be more pelagic that Brown as none were seen from the shore
Fiji
Thirty from boat off Taveuni 14th October
Brown Noddy Anous stolidus
Samoa
Common over the forest at Vaisigano Valley and Cloud 9 8th October
Very common seawatching from Ulutogia 9th October
Very common from the boat off Ulutogia 10th October
Fiji
Sixteen off Kadavu 13th October
Ten from boat off Taveuni 14th October
Blue Noddy Procelsterna cerulea
Samoa
Two whilst seawatching off Ulutogia 9th October
Three from the boat off Ulutogia 10th October
White Tern Gygis alba
Samoa
Common over the forest at Vaisigano Valley and Cloud 9, 8th October
Thirty seen seawatching from Ulutogia 9th October
Ten from the boat off Ulutogia 10th October
Metallic Pigeon (White-throated Pigeon) Columba vitiensis
Fiji
One Kadavu 13th October
Qeleni Road thirty 13th and on 14th October
One Monasavu Dam 15th October
New Caledonia
Two Farino 16th October
Seven Lifou 17th October
Vanuatu
One Pic Santo 20th October
Pacific Imperial-Pigeon Ducula pacifica
Samoa
Fairly common Vaisigano Valley with at least 20 seen 8th October
One en route Ulutogia to Apia 10th October
Vanuatu
Pic Santo four 20th and two 22nd October
Peale's Imperial-Pigeon (Barking I-P) Ducula latrans (Endemic)
Fiji
Kadavu forty 12th and twenty 13th October
Qeleni Road thirty 13th and two 14th October
One Des Voeux Peak 14th October
Four Raintree Lodge 14th October
Two seen ten heard Monasavu Dam area 15th October
Baker's Imperial-Pigeon Ducula bakeri (Endemic)
Vanuatu
Pic Santo two seen many heard mainly above 400m 20th two seen ten heard 21st one seen four heard 22nd October
New Caledonian Imperial-Pigeon Ducula goliath (Endemic)
New Caledonia
Two seen three heard Mt Khogis 16th October
One seen two heard Riviere Bleue 18th October
Many-coloured Fruit-Dove Ptilinopus perousii
Samoa
Eight Cloud 9 10th October
Fiji
One Raintree Lodge 12th October
Four Qeleni Road 13th October
Four en route to Monasavu Dam 15th October
Red-bellied Fruit-Dove Ptilinopus greyii
New Caledonia
Six seen and at least twenty heard Lifou 17th October
Vanuatu
Pic Santo ten heard at the lower altitudes 20th and ten heard 22nd October
Crimson-crowned Fruit-Dove Ptilinopus porphyraceus
Samoa
Many heard and up to 20 seen Vaisigano Valley 8th October
Heard Afulilo Hydroelectric Dam 9th October
Orange Dove Ptilinopus victor (Endemic)
Fiji
Three males, three females and one immature male seen and five heard Qeleni Road 13th October and one male, one female seen and two heard14th October.
Five heard Des Voeux Peak 14th October
Golden Dove Ptilinopus luteovirens (Endemic)
Fiji
Two males 6 females en route to Monasavu Dam 15th October
Whistling Dove Ptilinopus layardi (Endemic)
Fiji
Kadavu three seen and four heard 12th and 2 seen twenty heard on 13th October
Mackinlay's Cuckoo-Dove Macropygia mackinlayi
Vanuatu
At least ten seen daily and many heard Pic Santo 20 – 22nd October
Emerald Dove Chalcophaps indica
New Caledonia
Two seen and four heard Farino 16th October
Four Lifou 17th October
Vanuatu
Ten in the coconut groves at start of trek to Pic Santo 20th October
Forty in the coconut plantation at the foot of Pic Santo 22nd October
Tanna Fruit-Dove Ptilinopus tannensis (Endemic)
Vanuatu
Only one seen at the lower foothills of Pic Santo 20th October
Cloven-feathered Dove Drepanoptila holoserica (Endemic)
New Caledonia
One male two females Farino 16th October
One male seen four heard Mt Khogis 16th October
Blue-crowned Lorikeet
Vini australis
Samoa
Up to 30 seen in the Vaisigano Valley area 8th October. Appeared more common in the coconut plantation at the start of the trail
Two en route Apia to Ulutogia 9th October
Two Cloud 9 10th October
Rainbow Lorikeet Trichoglossus haematodus
New Caledonia
Four Farino 16th October
Thirty Noumea 17th October and twenty 18th October
Vanuatu
A total of six on the trek up Pic Santo including one at 900m 20th October
Six at lower altitudes Pic Santo 22nd October
Collared Lory Phyigys solitarius (Endemic)
Fiji
Five Colo-I-Suva 12th October
Kadavu thirty 12th and six 13th October
Two Des Voeux Peak 14th October
Four Raintree Lodge 14th October
Six Monasavu Dam 15th October
Palm Lorikeet Charmosyna palmarum (Endemic)
Vanuatu
Three seen well and five seen in flight all above 900m Pic Santo 21st October
Kadavu Shining-Parrot Prosopeia splendens (Endemic)
Fiji
Two Qeleni Road 13th October
Four Des Voeux Peak 14th October
Red Shining-Parrot Prosopeia tabuensis (Endemic)
Fiji
Kadavu ten 12th and six on 13th October
Masked Shining-Parrot Prosopeia personata (Endemic)
Fiji
Two heard Colo-I-Suva 12th October
Two seen Raintree Lodge 14th October
Horned Parakeet Eunymphicus cornutus (Endemic)
New Caledonia
Four Riviere Bleue 18th October
New Caledonian Red-fronted Parakeet Cyanoramphus saisseti (Endemic)
New Caledonia
Two Farino 16th October
Two heard Mt Khogis 16th October
Fan-tailed Cuckoo Cacomantis flabelliformis
New Caledonia
One Mt Khogis 16th October
One Riviere Bleue 18th October
Shining Bronze-Cuckoo Chrysococcyx lucidus
New Caledonia
One heard Riviere Bleue 18th October
Barn Owl Tyto alba
New Caledonia
One between the airport and La Foa 15th October
Glossy Swiftlet Aerodramus esculenta
New Caledonia
Several at Farino and Mt Khogis 16th October
Ten Lifou 17th October
Twenty Noumea 18th October
Vanuatu
Thirty on trek up Pic Santo 20th October
White-rumped Swiftlet Aerodramus spodiopygius
Samoa
Seen at all locations in good numbers. Especially common hawking in the Vaisigano Valley
Fiji
Six Colo-I-Suva 12th October
Ten Qeleni Road 13th October
Small numbers seen Taveuni and Viti Levu 14th October
Ten Monasavu Dam 15th October
Uniform Swiftlet Aerodramus vanikorensis
Vanuatu
Twenty Santo airport 19th October
Thirty above 900m Pic Santo 21st October
Twenty Pic Santo 22nd October
Chestnut-bellied Kingfisher Todirhamphus farquhari (Endemic)
Vanuatu
One at 450m Pic Santo 22nd October
Collared Kingfisher Todirhamphus chloris
Fiji
One Colo-I-Suva 12th October
Four Kadavu on 12th and 13th October
Four Qeleni Road 13th October and 14th October
A total of six between Raintree Lodge and Nadi 15th October
Vanuatu
Two at 300m on trek up Pic Santo 20th October
Two Pic Santo 22nd October
Sacred Kingfisher Todirhamphus sancta
New Caledonia
Six Lifou 17th October
Flat-billed Kingfisher Todirhamphus recurvirostris (Endemic)
Samoa
Three Vaisigano area and 2 Cloud 9 8th October
A total of six along the road between Apia and Ulutogia 9th and 10th October
Pacific Swallow Hirundo tahitica
Fiji
Kadavu six 12th October and ten 13th October
Five from the boat off Taveuni 14th October
Two en route Monasavu Dam to Nadi 15th October
Melanesian Cuckoo-Shrike Coracina caledonica
New Caledonia
Fifteen Farino and three Mt Khogis 16th October
Vanuatu
Two on trek up Pic Santo 20th October
Four Pic Santo 22nd October
New Caledonian Cuckoo-Shrike Coracina analis (Endemic)
New Caledonia
Three Riviere Bleue 18th October
Polynesian Triller Lalage maculosa
Samoa
Up to 15 Vaisigano Valley and two Cloud 9 8th October
Two on route Apia to Ulutogia and two Afulilo Hydroelectric Dam 9th October
Fiji
Six Colo-I-Suva 12th October
Four Kadavu 12th October and one 13th October
Four Qeleni Road 14th October
Four Des Voeux Peak 14th October
Five Raintree Lodge 14th October
Two Monasavu Dam 15th October
Samoan Triller Lalage sharpei (Endemic)
Samoa
The only record was of a single bird at Vaisigano Valley 8th October. Probably overlooked as not very active
Long-tailed Triller Lalage leucopyga
New Caledonia
Four Farino 16th October
Four Lifou 17th October
One Riviere Bleue 18th October
Island Thrush Turdus poliocephalus
Fiji
Forty Des Voeux Peak 14th October
A total of 10 seen or heard Monasavu Dam area 15th October
Long-legged Warbler Trichocichla rufa (Endemic)
Fiji
Two heard Monasavu Dam 15th October
Fiji Bush-Warbler Cettia ruficapilla (Endemic)
Fiji
One seen and six heard Kadavu 12th October and two seen five heard 13th October
Two seen and several heard Des Voeux Peak 14th October
Many heard Monasavu Dam area 15th October
New Caledonian Grassbird Megalurulus mariei (Endemic)
New Caledonia
Two Farino 16th October
Grey Fantail Rhipidura fuliginosa
New Caledonia
Common Farino 16th October
Vanuatu
Ten all at low altitude on trek up Pic Santo 20th October
Six at low altitudes Pic Santo 22nd October
Streaked Fantail Rhipidura spilodera
Fiji
Ten Colo-I-Suva 12th October
Eight Des Voeux Peak 14th October
Two Monasavu Dam area 15th October
New Caledonia
One Mt Khogis 16th October
Sixteen Lifou 17th October
Vanuatu
Two above 500m on trek up Pic Santo 20th October
Ten Pic Santo 21st October
Samoan Fantail Rhipidura nebulosa (Endemic)
Samoa
Up to 10 Vaisigano Valley and two Cloud 9 8th October
Kadavu Fantail Rhipidura personata (Endemic)
Fiji
Kadavu one 12th and eight seen five heard on 13th October
Slaty Monarch Mayrornis lessoni (Endemic)
Fiji
Four Colo-I-Suva 12th October
Kadavu three 12th and 10 on 13th October
Buff-bellied Monarch Neolalage banksiana (Endemic)
Vanuatu
Two seen six heard on trek up Pic Santo 20th October
Four seen ten heard Pic Santo 21st October
Two Pic Santo 22nd October
Southern Shrikebill Clytorhynchus pachycephaloides
New Caledonia
Two Mt Khogis 16th October
Fiji Shrikebill Clytorhynchus vitiensis (Endemic)
Fiji
One Kadavu 13th October
Two Monasavu Dam area 15th October
Black-throated Shrikebill Clytorhynchus nigrogularis
Fiji
One male Kadavu 12th October and a female on 13th October
Melanesian Flycatcher (New Caledonian F) Myiagra caledonica
New Caledonia
Four Mt Khogis 16th October
One heard Riviere Bleue 18th October
Vanuatu
Two on trek up Pic Santo 20th October
Four Pic Santo 21st October
Two at side of road base of Pic Santo 22nd October
The New Caledonia and Vanuatu forms look different - a possible split
Samoan Flycatcher Myiagra albiventris (Endemic)
Samoa
Five Vaisigano Valley 8th October
Vanikoro Flycatcher Myiagra vanikorensis (Endemic)
Fiji
Six Colo-I-Suva 12th October
Kadavu twenty 12th and 6 on the 13th October
One Des Voeux Peak 14th October
Three Raintree Lodge 14th October
One Monasavu Dam area 15th October
Blue-crested Flycatcher Myiagra azureocapilla (Endemic)
Fiji
Two at Colo-I-Suva 12th October was the only sighting of this stunning Flycatcher
Silktail Lamprolia victoriae (Endemic)
Fiji
Three Des Voeux Peak 14th October
Scarlet Robin Petroica multicolor
Samoa
Six Vaisigano Valley 8th October, mainly near the water intake area
Fiji
One Monasavu Dam 15th October
Vanuatu
Six Pic Santo 21st October
Yellow-bellied Robin Eopsaltria flaviventris (Endemic)
New Caledonia
Two Mt Khogis 16th October
One Riviere Bleue 18th October
Golden Whistler Pachycephala pectoralis
Fiji
One Colo-I-Suva 12th October
One Kadavu 12th October and six on 13th October
One seen many heard Des Voeux Peak 14th October
New Caledonia
Two Lifou 17th October
Vanuatu
Two seen many heard at all altitudes Santo 20th October
Pic Santo commonly heard but rarely seen 21st and 22nd October
New Caledonian Whistler Pachycephala caledonica (Endemic)
New Caledonia
One Farino Refuge 16th October
Five Mt Khogis 16th October
Rufous Whistler Pachycephala rufiventris (Endemic)
New Caledonia
Two Farino 16th October
One Farino Refuge 16th October
One Mt Khogis 16th October
Two Riviere Bleue 18th October
Samoan Whistler Pachycephala flavifrons (Endemic)
Samoa
Up to 20 Vaisigano Valley and one Cloud 9 8th October
Fan-tailed Gerygone Gerygone flavolateralis
New Caledonia
Twenty Mt Khogis 16th October
Fifteen Lifou 17th October
Vanuatu
Two seen ten heard on trek up Pic Santo 20th October
At least ten seen and many heard Pic Santo 21st October
Large Lifou White-eye Zosterops inornatus (Endemic)
New Caledonia
Four seen three heard Lifou 17th October
Green-backed White-eye Zosterops xanthochrous (Endemic)
New Caledonia
Common at Farino and Mt Khogis 16th October
Five Riviere Bleue 18th October
Small Lifou White-eye Zosterops minutus (Endemic)
New Caledonia
Fifty Lifou 17th October
Layard's White-eye Zosterops explorator (Endemic)
Fiji
Six Colo-I-Suva 12th October
Twenty Kadavu 12th October and 30 on 13th October
Six Qeleni Road 13th October
10 Des Voeux Peak 14th October
Five Raintree Lodge 14th October
Twenty Monasavu Dam area 15th October
Silver-eye Zosterops lateralis
Fiji
Two Raintree lodge 12th October
Twenty Kadavu 13th October
New Caledonia
Common at Farino 20th October
Twenty Lifou 17th October. This form is very different from the other forms in having a very dark head. Potential split?
Vanuatu
Twenty on trek up Pic Santo 20th October
Pic Santo ten 21st and 22nd October
Yellow-fronted White-eye Zosterops flavifrons (Endemic)
Vanuatu
Common at all altitudes on trek up Pic Santo 20th October
Twenty Pic Santo 21st October 22nd October
New Caledonian Myzomela Myzomela caledonica (Endemic)
New Caledonia
Common at Farino 16th October
Cardinal Myzomela Myzomela cardinalis
Samoa
Two en route from Apia to Ulutogia 9th October
New Caledonia
Fifteen Lifou 17th October
Vanuatu
Four on trek up Pic Santo 20th October
Pic Santo five 21st and four 22nd October
Orange-breasted Myzomela Myzomela jugularis (Endemic)
Fiji
Three Colo-I-Suva 12th October
Kadavu six 12th and 13th October
Two Des Voeux Peak 14th October
Seven Raintree Lodge 14th October
Wattled Honeyeater Foulehaio caunculata
Samoa
Seen in all suitable habitat
Fiji
Five Colo-I-Suva 12th October
Three Qeleni Road 13th October
One seen several heard Monasavu Dam area 15th October
Kadavu Honeyeater Xanthotis provocator (Endemic)
Fiji
Three Kadavu 12th October and three seen at least twenty heard 13th October
New Caledonian Friarbird Philemon diemenensis (Endemic)
New Caledonia
One Farino, ten Farino Refuge 16th October
Five Riviere Bleue 18th October
Mao Gymnomyza samoensis (Endemic)
Samoa
One seen on both visits to the water in take area of Vaisigano Valley and one heard about half way along the valley 8th October
Giant Honeyeater Gymnomyza viridis (Endemic)
Fiji
Heard Raintree Lodge 12th October
Three Des Voeux Peak 14th October
Three Raintree Lodge 14th October
Two seen at least 20 heard Monasavu Dam area 15th October
The two forms sound very different and even look different. Must be a good candidate for splitting
Crow Honeyeater Gymnomyza aubryana (Endemic)
New Caledonia
One Riviere Bleue 18th October
Barred Honeyeater Phylidonyris undulata (Endemic)
New Caledonia
Four Farino Refuge 16th October
One Mt Khogis 16th October
Two Riviere Bleue 18th October
New Hebrides Honeyeater Phylidonyris notabilis (Endemic)
Vanuatu
Two at 900m on trek up Pic Santo 20th October
Thirty all above 900m Pic Santo 21st October
Dark Brown Honeyeater Lichmera incana (Endemic)
New Caledonia
Up to thirty Farino and two Farino Refuge 16th October
Twenty Lifou 17th October
Twenty Riviere Bleue 18th October
Fiji Woodswallow Artamus mentalis (Endemic)
Fiji
One Colo-I-Suva 12th October and probably the same bird 14th October
A total of twenty Monasavu Dam area 15th October
White-breasted Woodswallow Artamus leucorynchus
New Caledonia
Two Farino 16th October
Six Lifou 17th October
Vanuatu
Four above 900m Pic Santo 21st October
New Caledonian Crow Corvus moneduloides (Endemic)
New Caledonia
Two Farino 16th October
Three Mt Khogis 16th October
Rusty-winged Starling Aplonis zelandica
Vanuatu
One at 1,100m Pic Santo 21st October
Striated Starling Aplonis striata (Endemic)
New Caledonia
Twenty Farino 16th October
Polynesian Starling Aplonis tabuensis
Samoa
Twenty Vaisigano Valley and 4 Cloud 9 8th October
One en route Ulutogia to Apia 10th October
Fiji
Five Raintree Lodge 12th October
Fifteen Kadavu 12th October and ten on 13th October
Four Qeleni Road 13th October and three 14th October
Samoan Starling Aplonis atrifusca (Endemic)
At least 30 Vaisigano Valley and 4 Could 9 8th October
Three Afulilo Hydro-electric Dam 9th October
Red-throated Parrotfinch Erythrura psittacea (Endemic)
New Caledonia
Seven Farino 16th October
One Mt Khogis 16th October
Fiji Parrotfinch Erythrura pealii (Endemic)
Fiji
Two Des Voeux Peak 14th October
Fifty Monasavu Dam 15th October
Red-headed Parrotfinch (Samoan P) Erythrura cyaneovirens (Endemic)
Samoa
Two feeding in the grass by the water pipe late afternoon Vaisigano Valley 8th October.
One flyover Cloud 9 10th October
Introduced species recorded
Common Myna, Spotted Dove, Jungle Myna, Red Vented Bulbul, Comman Waxbill
Australian Pelican Pelecanus conspicillatus
One Royal National Park 8th October
Pacific Black Duck Anas superciliosa
One Royal National Park 8th October
Australian Wood Duck Chenonetta jubata
Four Royal National Park 8th October
Dusky Moorhen Gallinula tenebrosa
Ten Royal National Park 8th October
Eurasian Coot Fulica atra
One Royal National Park 8th October
Purple Swamphen Porphyrio porphyrio
Three Royal National Park 8th October
Australian White Ibis Threskiornis molucca
Two en route Sydney to Royal National Park 8th October
Australian Kestrel Falco cenchroides
Two Royal National Park 8th October
Wonga Pigeon Leucosarcia melanoleuca
Two Royal National Park 8th October
Yellow-tailed Black-Cockatoo Calyptorhynchus latirostris
Three Royal National Park 8th October
Sulphur-crested Cockatoo Cacatua galerita
Thirty Royal National Park 8th October
Australian King Parrot Alisterus scapularis
One Royal National Park 8th October
Superb Lyrebird Menura novaehollandiae
One Royal National Park 8th October
White-browed Scrubwren Sericornis frontalis
Three Royal National Park 8th October
Brown Gerygone Gerygone mouki
10 Royal National Park 8th October
New Holland Honeyeater Phylidonyris novaehollandiae
Thirty Royal National Park 8th October
Eastern Spinebill Acanthorhynchus tenuirostris
One Royal National Park 8th October
Eastern Whipbird Psophodes nigrogularis
Two seen and three heard Royal National Park 8th October
Eastern Yellow Robin Eopsaltria australis
Five Royal National Park 8th October
Grey Fantail Rhipidura fuliginosa
Two Royal National Park 8th October
Black-faced Monarch Monarcha melanopsis
One seen two heard Royal National Park 8th October
Magpie-lark Grallina cyanoleuca
Two Royal National Park 8th October
Satin Bowerbird Ptilonorhynchus violaceus
Two Royal National Park 8th October
Black-faced Cuckoo-Shrike Coracina novaehollandiae
One Royal National Park 8th October
Pied Currawong Strepera graculina
Ten Royal National Park 8th October
Graham Talbot
gtalbot (at) netvigator.com