Menorca, Spain - 16th - 23rd October 2003

Published by Nick Moss (mossnicholas AT aol.com)

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A last minute slightly 'out-of-tourist season' holiday was enjoyed at Menorca, and birding was far better than I expected, and different to that I have experienced in Majorca. The weather was not great and perhaps this explained the relative lack of tourists end of season. Made for good birding though!

Getting out of Menorca Airport was paradise and low-key compared to the mile long walk and chaos at its larger sister island. Driving the pre-booked car to the resort from there was easy, straightforward directions etc. The single main spine road running like a fish bone from one end of the island to the other (MAO/Mahon - Ciutadella) is the C721 and is only about 20 miles long, and all the main birding spots are easily signposted off it and as the C721 is central each location off it is no more than five miles away, making travelling very easy.

I was based at SA CALETTA near CIUTADELLA, where some evenings at least 200 Cory 's Shearwaters were seen close in adjacent to the approach road. Kestrels and the occasional Red Kite drifted over the resort. Indeed, Red Kites, Booted Eagles and Kestrels can be seen anywhere -often when you are driving!

Just out of CIUTADELLA on the C721 is the tourist spot of NAVETA DES TUDONS, an old fort or something - I checked it when it looked quiet as the adjacent scrub looked good for warblers, unfortunately it was too windy but at quieter times it may have potential. Nearby an area by the C721 looks great for raptors too, I always had kestrels there but could not pull over (which is quite rare for Menorca).

CAP D'ARTRUTX is just south of Ciutadella and may be worth checking out for shearwaters - I had 30 Cory's passing, and an Osprey overhead, as well as Blue Rock Thrush and Black Redstart again. The country lanes nearby surely have potential.

On the 17/10 I set out on the C721, and at FERRERRIES took the road to one of the nicest resorts - CALA GALDANA to the south. I pulled off the road quickly (as you often can do to check out areas) as a Raven was perched on telegraph wires, & Goldfinches and the ubiquitous Stonechat were seen easily. The ALGENDAR GORGE is recommended as a walk from Cala Galdana, but it was raining when I visited, so I only walked a short distance along- Rock Doves, Moorhens and common passerines were by the entrance and I felt it looked quite promising. A Common Sandpiper perched just a couple of feet from my car. A pretty drive to the nearby cove of CALA MITJANA produced Osprey overhead, during a brief visit.

Just a couple of miles out of Ciutadella in the opposite northerly direction is PUNTA NATI - I visited here on the 20/10 at about 8am. The approach lane through arable fields is fairly narrow and you have to park up about one hundred yards before the lighthouse gate, there is little other opportunity! This point was exposed and a strong wind made birding quite difficult. Flocks of passerines wheeled around - around 200 Linnets and House Sparrows. Upto 10 Wheatears were present and a couple of pairs of Blue Rock Thrushes sheltered in the stone walls. 4 Ravens were also on the fields with many patrolling Yellow-Legged Gulls, and I was pleased to locate a pair of calling Thekla Larks in a sheltered section of field. A pair of Peregrines swooped low over the fields and disturbed a Stone Curlew. I climbed up on to a stone wall to obtain a better view and disturbed the entire flock of Stone Curlews that were well hidden from me. Around 100 of these lovely birds flew around me before resettling. I retreated feeling a little guilty, and noted a female/juv Black Redstart nearby.
I drove slowly back the short distance towards Ciutadella, checking out the fields that contained so many passerines - another Thelka Lark was seen as well as several Corn Buntings, Skylarks, Goldfinches, Wheatears, as well as another Blue Rock Thrush, Black Redstart & a Willow Warbler....and of course House Sparrows galore! Overall, early morning birding of this area was excellent!

Another short drive from Ciutadella was undertaken on 22/10 when I visited PUNTA DE S'ESCULLAR which is accessed from the very small port of CALA MORELL (this is just 4 or 5 km's east along the coast from Punta Nati, and it may be possible to walk along the cliffs from one point to another??).

On the approach to Cala Morell I pulled over to watch 3 soaring Egyptian Vultures, and then again to observe 6 Booted Eagles low over woods. These were dark-morph individuals unusually, at first I thought they may have been something bigger but thorough scope scrutinisation enabled me to discount any more exciting theories I may initially have had. The characteristic wing 'headlights' viewed head on clinched ID. Cala Morell is unspectacular and small, I parked on the left of the resort next to houses on higher ground (just follow the road through and up, not further on down to the beach). Although there is a fence to negotiate, this was no problem when I went and I followed a constantly uneven and stoney path adjacent to the cliff edge for up to a mile, out to 'Punta de S'Escular'- which I guessed was the most prominantly-jutting out point. You do not have to walk that far out, entirely up to you - bu tI would recommend it. It was well worth it, and the sun came out too making it pleasant. I came across up to 20 Black Redstarts as I walked out, nearly all of which were juvs or females. Rock Doves were prevalent, and 6 more Blue Rock Thrushes showed. Keep your eye inland, I noted 7 Ring Ouzels on this walk, as well as Willow Warblers and chiffchaffs and other common passerines (Robins, Linnets, Goldfinches, Stonechats). Autumn migration was obvious. 2 Pallid Swifts flew overhead (they breed here but most had departed), and a Kestrel hunted. The only other hirundine seen here was a Swallow! Cory's Shearwaters drifted past, and I disturbed a Red-legged Partridge from cover. Around 10 Sardinian Warblers 'buzzed' me as I walked by. I settled down at the end of the peninsula (Punta De'S'Escullar), displacing a few local sheep, to get better views of the shearwaters, and about a dozen Shags on rocks below. Using the scope I scanned along the cliff face towards Punta Nati, where I noted 3 Egyptian Vultues in flight and then 8 more perched on higher sections of the sheer cliff face at CALA GALLAMINA (I estimated it to be this using a OS map). This is probably their regular roost spot at this time of year.

Enthralled by this, I eventually stood up to turn around and walk back to the car, but I immediately noticed the movement of 3 small passerines nearby - they were Alpine Accentors! Superb close views were enjoyed. Possibly the highlight of the trip!
I would advise sticking fairly close to the cliff face, I tried to walk inland a few hundred yards and make my way back to the car, this proved difficult with bramble and gorse etc. But it had been a very profitable few hours nevertheless.

To the south, the famous SON BOU reedbed was visited on 21/10, this is also a thriving tourist resort in season so be warned get there early....3 beautiful Audouin's Gulls were on the quiet beach, and Mallards & Coots were on the feeder streams. A Kingfisher showed superbly, and a few Cattle & Little Egrets were flitting around, whilst a female Marsh Harrier drifted over. A Moustached Warbler revealed itself and another warbler may possibly have been Bonelli's! 4 Snipe offered good views as I watched from the few available spots close to the car park. The reedbed here obviously has potential at times, and the area merited more than the hour I spent here. A single Grag Martin was seen by the tunnel approaching this resort.

Another excellent birding area is the area to the north, accessed by taking the C723 (at ES MERCADAL on the C721) to CALA TIRANT, FORNELLS, and CAP DE CAVALLERIA. Bit of a circular route to cover these three, but not difficult. Inland birding is good - just stop where you see something good!

I visited CALA TIRANT twice, and also checked out the lanes nearby which were excellent for raptors. Follow signs for Cap de Cavalleria from the C721 at Es Mercadal, and you will come across Tirant 'unsignposted' I believe, on your right. AT TIRANT there was water in October, so waders were present - 4 Green Sandpipers, 2 Wood Sandpipers, 2 Common Sandpipers, 2 Ringed Plovers, 3 Snipe, a Greenshank, Ruff, Lapwings etc. There were plenty of wildfowl including a single Black-Necked Grebe. A Hoopoe flitted by, and 300 Swallows were seen here, as well as Wheatears, Stonechats, Linnetts etc. A Water Pipit was watched next to 2 Meadow Pipits, and there were several Little and Cattle Egrets. A few Booted Eagles, and a disrespectful (to the eagles) female Peregrine patrolled the hillside behind. A male Marsh Harrier was hunting the marsh. An area worthy of full exploration!

The 'immediately' adjacent country lane between VILANOVA & S'A'DAIRO (see OS map)contained flocks of Starlings, and more excitingly raptors (this means continuing on past the sign for Cap de Cavalleria for a mile or so). A female Hen Harrier drifted across the road, and a couple of Red Kites showed extremely well. I also thought I had a distant female Montagu's Harrier, but when I saw the definite ringtail Hen Harrier close by a few minutes later I guessed it was the same bird. I also had up to 8 Kestrels in view simultaneously! The next field contained 8 Egyptian Vultures scavenging on a sheep carcass. I obtained superb views. Perhaps I was just lucky! They constantly took off, circled and landed by the carcass again. A female Sparrowhawk passed by and another Red Kite came close to inspect the potential carcass. Even without the free meal, these birds are around this area and adjacent coast. I was surprised to se a White Stork here, an additional bonus!
I could not find the access point to SES SALINES at nearby FORNELLS but I did stumble across my female Montagu's Harrier here. Streaked chest, narrow white rump, rich dark brown back and underwing pattern identified this as a 2nd cy bird Monty.

The area around Tirant especially, was so productive I found it difficult to tear myself away - especially as it can all be done from, or very close to the car.

CAP DE CAVALLERIA was a bit of a disappointment after this, the same birds as seen elsewhere were present including 3 more Black Redstarts and a Blue Rock Thrush. Don't let me put you off however, it is a beautiful spot but only 5 miles along from the quieter and less disturbed Punta de S'Escullar and Punta Nati that I have already mentioned. Others have found this area very fruitful I gather.

MONTE TORO or ES TORO is worth calling at if you visit Tirant/Fornells/Cavalleria. It is the highest point on the island (and close to the C721/ C723 junction at Es Mercadal), and therefore may be good for raptors too (if you have not already been spoilt). In a brief visit I had Peregrine, Kestrel, as well as 4 Black Redstarts - including a stunning male for a change!

The east end of the island closer to MAHON has a few good spots too. CAP DE FAVARITX is extremely barren and there is little evident birdlife although I had 15 Cory's Shearwaters and 5 Shags (it wore me out! - sorry). But the arable land just inland at PLA DE FAVARITX has potential - 4 Booted Eagles were seen as well as 2 Ravens and 2 beautiful Red Kites. I found signposts hard to follow in this area (even with my OS map). I could not find the approach track to the adjacent SALINAS DE MONTGOFRE unfortunately!

Close by I spent some time at the huge reserve of S'ALBUFERA ES GRAU (ES GRAU to most). Coot & Mallard were prevalent, I also had Shovelers, Cormorants, Little Egrets, Grey Herons, a Little Grebe, Great Crested Grebe, and 2 winter-plumaged Black Necked Grebes. A single Blackcap showed here, and the sight of 500 Yellow legged Gulls overhead was spectacular. An Osprey flew overhead. You need at least half a day or even a day if you want to cover this reserve. I only looked at one end, and the reedbed is at the other! I did not think this reserve was that good to be honest.

So there you are - I personally found the western half of this small island better, but that maybe personal taste - Cala Tirant and adjacent area, Cap de Cavalleria, Punta De S'Escullar, Punta Nati ALL to the NORTH-WEST. Son Bou half way along the SOUTH coast is also worthy of a visit.

That was my experience! I clearly benefited from autumn migration, but saying that it was superb for raptors especially, entirely different to Mallorca in terms of landscape - and more peaceful.

Species Lists

Egyptian Vulture
Booted Eagle
Red Kite
Marsh Harrier
Hen Harrier
Montagu's Harrier
Osprey
Peregrine
Sparrowhawk
Kestrel
Raven
Rook
White Stork
Cormorant
Shag
Grey Heron
Little Egret
Cattle Egret
Great Crested Grebe
Black-Necked Grebe
Little Grebe
Shoveler
Wigeon
Mallard
Coot
Moorhen
Pochard
Muscovy Duck
Cory's Sheawater
Wood Pigeon
Rock Dove
Collared Dove
Feral Pigeon
Red-Legged Partridge
Black-Headed Gull
Yellow-Legged Gull
Audouin's Gull
Stone Curlew
Green Sandpiper
Wood Sandpiper
Common Sandpiper
Greenshank
Snipe
Ruff
Lapwing
Ringed Plover
Swallow
Pallid Swift
Swift
House Martin
Blackbird
Mistle Thrush
Song Thrush
Blue Rock Thrush
Ring Ouzel
Robin
Black Redstart
Stonechat
Wheatear
Corn Bunting
Greenfinch
Chaffinch
Goldfinch
Linnet
Skylark
Thekla lark
House Sparrow
Water Pipit
Meadow Pipit
Cetti's Warbler
Willow Warbler
Chiffchaff
Moustached Warbler
Sardinian Warbler
Blackcap
Kingfisher
Hoopoe
Pied Wagtail
Starling
Alpine Accentor

79 species in total